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Jam tart

Homemade jam tarts

A jam tart is small and open English tart variety.[1][2]

Etymology

The term "jam tart" came into common use around the 1840s, but the dish itself predates the term.[3] They comprise small shortcrust pastry bases, filled with a fruit jam, such as strawberry, raspberry, apricot or lemon curd which are then baked.[4] The earliest recorded use of the phrase "jam tart" is from c. 1840.[5]

History

Jam tarts are considered a "quintessential" British food,[4] although possibly they are known to have been consumed in eighth-century Xinjiang, China, and used as a burial offering to the gods.[6] They were unknown to most people in Medieval Europe, however, until the Atlantic sugar trade of the century. This was because until sugar became widely available for common use, the usual medieval sweetener was honey, but, unlike sugar, honey was a limited preservative.[7][8] The ruling classes could afford the little sugar that could be imported form the Middle East, and it was used to make what were known as "tartstuff", a rich butter paste patty filled with a fruit filling such as strawberry, mixed with were stewed with sugar, red wine, cinnamon, ginger or rose-water.[9][note 1] The Romans made pastry, but not jam.[10]

Strawberry and Apricot jam tarts

By the Victorian period jam tarts had become a staple of the domestic menu. Recipes from cooks such as Hannah Glasse popularised baking with jam,[11] as until then sugar was most commonly known as "a medicine, a spice, or a plaything of the powerful".[12] were known as Epiphany tarts, as they were traditionally baked for 6 January, to celebrate the arrival of the Three Kings in Bethlehem, and were considered a delicacy.[13] They have been described by a modern food critic as "the very pinnacle of understated boasting in the jam tart world". Larger than 20th century tarts, it was divided into 13 equal slices, representing Jesus and his disciples, with each section filled with a different variety of jam.[14] Trying to use as many different flavours as possible added a competitive element.[15] The tart also indicated socio-economic status, both by reflecting the depth of faith in the household and that luxuries were affordable;[13] Mrs Beeton wrote that, even in 1861, jam was a luxury due to its expense, particularly when recipes required "considerable quantities", such as jam tarts.[16] They also could be made throughout the year, often with the addition of mincemeat.[17]

It is probable that it was an erroneously made jam tart that led to the accidental creation of the Bakewell pudding, in Bakewell, Derbyshire. Supposedly one Mrs Greaves left instructions for her inexperienced cook to make a jam tart, but, instead of mixing eggs and almond paste for pastry, she spread it on top of the jam where it formed a crust on baking.[18][note 2]

Cultural resonance

Jam tarts have entered British culture. In an episode of the television series Midsomer Murders, 'Secrets and Spies', one of the characters refers to Mr Kipling as being not "just a jam tart"; this was an allusion to both the confectionary company who produced the cakes and Rudyard Kipling, who wrote spy novels.[19] In the sitcom Please Sir! (1968–1972) episode, Peter Cleall's character Eric Duffy defended a subnormal fellow pupil played by Peter Denyer—Dennis Dunstable—fellow actor David Barry wrote, Cleall was in possession of a jam tart. According to Barry, Cleall "carried the jam tart over to Richard Everett's character, and said threateningly, 'Did you say something, you pasty-faced pillock?'" before smashing the tart into Everett's face; "Jam trickled all over the shocked actor's face, down his neck and over his school uniform."[20]

The King and Queen of hearts preside over the Knave's trial; note the Queen's jam tarts laid out as evidence before them.

The pastry is also an essential component of the English nursery rhyme, The Queen of Hearts, in which the eponymous Queen bakes some jam tarts. The King of Hearts wants to dine, only for it to be discovered that the tarts have been stolen. Investigation reveals the Knave of Hearts as the culprit; the King proceeds to "beat the knave full sore". As a result of his beating, the knave promises to desist from his life of crime in future.[21] Lewis Carroll uses the rhyme as plot device in Alice's Adventures in Wonderland to parody the British justice system, using the King of Hearts, the Queen of Hearts and the Knave of Hearts as characters.[22] [23] In 2015, the Welsh town of Llandudno—where Alice Liddell, Carroll's inspiration for Alice——launched an attempt to enter the Guinness Book of Records for the longest line—1500,[24] 2000,[25] or 2045[26]—of jam tarts, which must also then be consumed. This followed a previous attempt by the town three years previously, when participants made and ate 1716 tarts. [25]

W. H. Auden wrote a poem in 1938 titled "I'm a Jam Tart", as a satire on the cabaret songs of Cole Porter.[27] Jam tart has been Cockney rhyming slang for heart since the 19th century, and also referred to a man's "best girl". Its use expanded to include (usually young) women generally, and thus the term of endearment "sweetheart".[28] For example, Barry Humphries stated, in his 1971 book Bazz Pulls it Off! that "whenever I see a decent jam tart with a good set of top bollocks I'm in like Flynn. No probs!",[29][note 3] and in Australian English, for example, "The Pope's a Jew if that jam tart doesn't root like a rattlesnake" as reported in Private Eye in 1969.[5] Another of jam tart's original slang meanings was "mart", as in a market place; this was often applied to the London Stock Exchange. This further led to the combination of the two to mean a girl of loose morals,[28] or even a prostitute.[5] Due to its association with "heart", and the fact that they play in a maroon strip, jam tart also became the nickname for the Scottish football team, Heart of Midlothian.[30][31]

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Not only strawberry, however; the Tudors particularly utilised a broad range of fillings, including fruits such as prunes, medlars, quinces and rosehip, but also flower petals like cowslip, violets, borage flowers, primroses, rose petals or those from marigolds.[9]
  2. ^ Hover, the Bakewell pudding—often called a tart—has roots in medieval cuisine, where it was a custard cream baked over candied fruit and known as a flanthon.[18]
  3. ^ Julian Franklyn has noted that "it is one of the few examples rhyming slang terms to be reduced to its second element instead of its first".[28]

References

  1. ^ Letters (2017-03-08). "Jam tarts are not an unimaginable luxury in the north". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2023-07-12.
  2. ^ "Toast: The Story of a Boy's Hunger". Gastronomica. 5 (3): 138–138. 2005. doi:10.1525/gfc.2005.5.3.138.1. ISSN 1529-3262.
  3. ^ "JoyofBaking.com - Baking & Dessert: "Jam Tart"". www.joyofbaking.com. Retrieved 2023-07-12.
  4. ^ a b "Queen of Hearts jam tarts recipe - Great British Chefs". www.greatbritishchefs.com.
  5. ^ a b c Ayto, John (October 18, 2012). "The Diner's Dictionary: Word Origins of Food and Drink". OUP Oxford – via Google Books.
  6. ^ "News in brief". January 26, 2009 – via The Guardian.
  7. ^ "Does honey have any value as a preservative?". Office for Science and Society.
  8. ^ Sweeney, Del (November 11, 2016). "Agriculture in the Middle Ages: Technology, Practice, and Representation". University of Pennsylvania Press – via Google Books.
  9. ^ a b Williams, Sara Paston (March 25, 1999). "Traditional Puddings". National Trust, Aylesbury – via Google Books.
  10. ^ Solomon, Jon. '"Tracta": A Versatile Roman Pastry', Hermes, vol. 106, no. 4, 1978, pp. 539–56. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/4476082. Accessed 25 Feb. 2025.
  11. ^ Hood, Sarah B. (June 17, 2021). "Jam, Jelly and Marmalade: A Global History". Reaktion Books – via Google Books.
  12. ^ Mintz, Sidney W. (August 5, 1986). "Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History". Penguin – via Google Books.
  13. ^ a b "Epiphany Tart (Victorian Jam Tart) | Almanac.com". www.almanac.com. December 23, 2024.
  14. ^ Boermans, Mary-Anne (November 7, 2013). "Great British Bakes: Forgotten treasures for modern bakers". Random House – via Google Books.
  15. ^ Tann-Watson, Lynne (May 18, 2016). "The Turning Of The Year". Lulu.com – via Google Books.
  16. ^ Davidson, Alan (February 25, 2014). "The Oxford Companion to Food". Oxford University Press – via Google Books.
  17. ^ Hill, Georgiana (December 13, 2012). "A Year of Victorian Puddings: Traditional Tarts, Pies and Puddings for Every Day of the Year". Pan Macmillan – via Google Books.
  18. ^ a b Davidson, Alan (February 25, 2014). "The Oxford Companion to Food". Oxford University Press – via Google Books.
  19. ^ Administrator, men (January 12, 2013). "The umpire strikes back". Manchester Evening News.
  20. ^ Barry, David (November 24, 2020). "Please Sir! The Official History". Andrews UK Limited – via Google Books.
  21. ^ Reichertz, Ronald (February 25, 2000). "The Making of the Alice Books: Lewis Carroll's Uses of Earlier Children's Literature". McGill-Queen's Press - MQUP – via Google Books.
  22. ^ Dr Oliver Tearle (Loughborough University) (20 April 2021). "A Summary And Analysis Of Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures In Wonderland - Interesting Literature".
  23. ^ Fordyce, Rachel; Marello, Carla (February 25, 1994). "Semiotics and Linguistics in Alice's Worlds". Walter de Gruyter – via Google Books.
  24. ^ "Llandudno marking Lewis Carroll link with jam tart record attempt". May 1, 2015 – via www.bbc.co.uk.
  25. ^ a b "Town attempts jam tart record in honour of Alice in Wonderland". The Telegraph. May 1, 2015.
  26. ^ Hemming, Jez (May 1, 2015). "WATCH: Llandudno grabs jam tarts world record crown". North Wales Live.
  27. ^ Cunningham, Valentine (April 17, 2004). "Musical truth" – via The Guardian.
  28. ^ a b c Franklyn, Julian (October 8, 2013). "A Dictionary of Rhyming Slang". Routledge – via Google Books.
  29. ^ Dalzell, Tom; Victor, Terry (June 26, 2015). "The New Partridge Dictionary of Slang and Unconventional English". Routledge – via Google Books.
  30. ^ "Scottish Football" – via books.google.co.uk.
  31. ^ "Dictionary of Sports and Games Terminology" – via books.google.co.uk.