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{{about|all aspects of the administrative district|the Swat river itself|Swat River}}
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{{Advert|date=October 2013}}
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{{Infobox settlement
{{Infobox settlement
| name = Swat District <br> '''سوات'''
| name = Swat District <br> '''سوات'''
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| mapsize = 200px
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| map_alt =
| map_alt =
| map_caption = Location of Swat District (yellow) within the [[Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa]] Province of Pakistan.
| map_caption = Location of Swat District (highlighted in yellow) within the [[Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa]] Province of Pakistan.
| latd = |latm = |lats = |latNS =
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| longd = |longm = |longs = |longEW =
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| population_total = 1257602
| population_total = 1257602
| population_density_km2 = 236
| population_density_km2 = 236
| timezone1 = [[Time in Pakistan|PKT]]
| timezone1 = [[Time in Pakistan|PST]]
| utc_offset1 = +5
| utc_offset1 = +5
| established_title = Established
| established_title = Established
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| blank1_info_sec1 =
| blank1_info_sec1 =
| demographics1_title1 = Main language(s)
| demographics1_title1 = Main language(s)
| demographics1_info1 = [[Pashto language|Pashto]], Torwali, Gojri, Hindko and Kalami
| demographics1_info1 = [[Pashto language|Pakhto]]
| website = [http://www.swatdirectory.com "www.swatdirectory.com"]
m [http://www.tourswat.com "www.tourswat.com"]


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'''Swat''' ({{IPA-ur|ˈsʋaːt̪|pron}}, [[Pashto language|Pashto]]: سوات) is a valley and an administrative [[Districts of Pakistan|district]] in the [[Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]] Province, located close to the [[Durand Line|Afghan-Pakistan border]]. It is the upper valley of the [[Swat River]], which rises in the [[Hindu Kush]] range. The capital of Swat is [[Saidu Sharif]], but the main town in the Swat valley is [[Mingora]].<ref name=afp1128>[http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5jZ4MUOze82QJmr6Lv7C3sbmc-K1w "Pakistan troops seize radical cleric's base": officials], Agence France Presse article, November 28, 2007, accessed same day</ref> It was a [[princely state]] (see [[Swat (princely state)]]) in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa until it was dissolved in 1969. The valley is almost entirely populated by ethnic [[Pashtun people|Pashtuns]] ([[Afghan (ethnonym)|Afghans]]). The language spoken in the valley is Pashto/Pakhto. With high mountains, green meadows, and clear lakes, it is a place of great natural beauty and is popular with tourists as "the [[Switzerland]] of the region".

'''Swat''' ({{IPA-ur|ˈsʋaːt̪|pron}}, [[Pashto]]:سوات, {{lang-ur|{{Nastaliq|سوات}}}}) is a valley and an administrative [[Districts of Pakistan|district]] in the [[Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]], [[Pakistan]]. It is the upper valley of the [[Swat River]], which rises in the [[Hindu Kush]] range. The capital of Swat is [[Saidu Sharif]], but the main town in the Swat valley is [[Mingora]].<ref name=afp1128>[http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5jZ4MUOze82QJmr6Lv7C3sbmc-K1w "Pakistan troops seize radical cleric's base": officials], ''Agence France Presse'' (AFP), 28 November 2007, accessed same day</ref>

It was a [[princely state]] (see [[Swat (princely state)]]) in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa until it was dissolved in 1969. The valley is almost entirely populated by ethnic [[Gurjar|Gujjar]], [[Pashtun people|Pashtun]] Awankhel. The predominant languages spoken in the valley are is [[Pashto]] and [[Gujri]], while minor languages include [[Torwali language|Torwali]] and [[Kalami language|Kalami]] in Swat Kohistan.

== Languages and demographics ==
[[File:Map of languages of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Languages of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]]
The primary local language of the Southern Swat region is Pashto; people in the northern Swat Kohistan areas speak Kohistani languages such as Torwali, [[Gojri]] and Kalami. As [[Urdu language|Urdu]] is the national language, it is also spoken and understood, and to a lesser extent English. The population at the 1981 census was 715,938, which had risen to 1,257,602 at the next census in 1998. Main Tribes are [[Yusufzai]]s, Akhund Khel, Banur Khel Sahibzadgan (Sayedan), [Awan or Awankhel], [[Shilmani]],Mashwani, Babi, Tarin, Tarani,Swati, Uthmanzai or Utman Khels, Miangan (Syed), Chitralis, [[Kohistanis]], Akhund khel Yousafzai, Nooristani and some [[Mehsud]]s and [[Wazir (tribe)|Wazir]]s, migrants from [[Bannu]] and [[Waziristan]].


== History ==
== History ==
Swat has been inhabited for over two thousand years by Hindus. The first occupants created well-planned towns. In 327 BC, [[Alexander the Great]] fought his way to Udegram and Barikot and stormed their battlements. In Greek accounts, these towns have been identified as Ora and Bazira, respectively. Around the 2nd century BC, the area was occupied by [[Buddhist]]s, who were attracted by the peace and serenity of the land. Remains of their structures testify to their skills as sculptors and architects.
Swat has been inhabited for over two thousand years. The first inhabitants were settled in well-planned towns. In 327 BC, [[Alexander the Great]] fought his way to Udegram and Barikot and stormed their battlements. In Greek accounts these towns have been identified as Ora and Bazira. Around the 2nd century BC, the area was occupied by Buddhists, who were attracted by the peace and serenity of the land. There are many remains that testify to their skills as sculptors and architects. In the beginning of the 8th century AD, Gabari Royal Tajik tribe advanced through Laghmanat, ningarhar, Dir and invaded Swat, defeating the Buddhists and the Hindus. This war was headed by Sultan Pakhal Gabari and later on by Sultan Behram Gabari Rulers of Kuner Pich and cousin of Rulers of Balkh and Kashmir. Later some [[Dilazak]] encrouched tha area and settled among Gabaris, who in turn were ousted by the [[Yusufzais]] which was backed by Mughal Badshah Zahiruddin Muhammad Baber, considered the super power in 1519 and 1520. The historical paradox was that the Yusufzais were ousted from Kabul by Mirza Ullegh beg, the uncle of Baber, and killed 600 malak of Yusufzai; the Gabaris helped Yousofzais refugees with a warm welcome and settled them in Bajour Dir and Swat regions. The Yousofzais forgot the generosity of Gabaris and encrouched upon the Gabari state with the plotted help of Zahiruddin Muhammad babar. They Demolished the Gabar-Kot (fortress) in bajour in 1519 and further advanced to the swat and compelled the last Gabari King Sultan Awais Gabari to flee to Upper Dir where he established his rule in,Chitral wakhan,Badakhshan and other upper Oxus.
The originator of the present family of Swat was the Muslim saint Abdul Ghafoor, the [[Akhund of Swat]], a [[Safi tribe|Safi]] [[Momand]] of [[Hazara District|Hazara]] district, from where he went to [[Buner District|Buner]] territory. He was a pious man and the people respected him so greatly that they called him Akhund Sahib.<ref>S.G. Page 398 and 399, T and C of N.W.F.P by Ibbestson page 11 etc</ref>


During the mid-19th century, Muslim tribes were fighting against each other for the possession of Swat Valley. On the intervention of the honourable Akhund Sahib, the killing was stopped, and such was his influence that the chiefs of all tribes unanimously made him the ruler of the valley. Akhund Sahib administrated the valley according to Muslim laws. Peace and tranquility prevailed, and agriculture and trade flourished in the territory. Akhund Sahib had two sons by his wife, who belonged to Nikbi Khel.
In the beginning of the 8th century AD, the (Pashtun tribe) Tanoli & Gabari [[Swati (Pashtun tribe)|Swati Pashtun tribe]] advanced through [[Laghman Province|Laghmanat]], [[Nangarhar]], and [[Dir District|Dir]]. By the early 13th century, they captured Swat, defeating the local Buddhists and the [[Hindu]]s. This war was headed by Sultan Pakhal Gabari and later on by the [[Jahangiri]] Sultan Behram Gabari rulers of [[Kunar Valley|Kunar]] [[Pech (river)|Pech]] and cousins of the [[Shah Miri dynasty|rulers of Kashmir]].


After the death of Akhund Sahib, the tribal chiefs again started fighting and killing, which continued for years. Eventually the tribal chiefs agreed to give the control of the valley into the hands of the honourable Gul Shahzada Abdul Wadood, the son of Mian Gul Abdul Khaliq, son of Akhund Sahib. The wife of Mian Abdul Wadood was the daughter of Honorable Mirza Afzal-ul-Mulk, the ruler of Chitral. The British by trick put Chitral under the [[suzerainty]] of [[Kashmir]]. The Chitral ruler gave two horses every year to the Rajia of Kashmir, and the Raja provided Chitral with grain and sugar, etc. Swat thus went under protection of the British.
Later some [[Dilazak]] encroached on the area and settled among the Gabari. They were ousted in turn by the [[Yusufzai]]s, backed by the [[Mughal tribe|Mughal]] Badshah Zahiruddin Muhammad Baber, considered the super power in 1519 and 1520. The historical paradox was that the Yusufzais were ousted from Kabul by Mirza Ullegh beg, the uncle of Baber, who killed 600 ''[[malak]]'' of Yusufzai. Yousofzais refugees settled among the Gabaris in the Dir and Swat regions.


During the rule of Mian Gul Muhammad, Abdul Haq Jehanzeb, the son of Mian Abdul Wadood, the state acceded to Pakistan in 1947. The present prince, Muhammad Aurzngzeb Khan, son of Jahanzeb, married the daughter of Field Marshal Mohammad Ayub Khan in 1955. Thus by intermarriages with the other castes, the family became a branch of the imperial Gujjars i-e the Royal family of swat wali is belong to the Gurjar Rajput family which laid down the foundation of swat kingdom. Jahznzeb started a Degree College at Saidu Sahrif, the capital of the State, and four High Schools at Mingora, Chakesar, Matta and Dagar. Fourteen middle schools, twenty-eight lower middle schools, and fifty-six primary schools were established. A girls high school and high class religious schools were established at Saidu Sharif. At all the schools, the poor students were granted scholarships. The state was an exemplary state during British rule. The Gujjars were very poor people in the Swat Valley, but nowadays they have diverted their attention towards education and are holding good posts in government services. They also have a firm stand in politics of Pakistan. The current Prince [[Aurangzeb Khan]] was also Governor of [[Baluchistan]].
With the help of Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur, the Yousofzais encroached upon the Gabari state. They demolished the Gabar-Kot (fortress) in Bajour in 1519 and advanced to the Swat. The last Gabari king, Sultan Awais Gabari, fled to Upper Dir, where he established his rule in Chitral, Wakhan, Badakhshan and other towns along the upper [[Oxus River]].


===Buddhist heritage of Swat===
The ancestor of the present family of Swat was the Muslim saint Abdul Ghafoor, the [[Akhund of Swat]], a [[Safi tribe|Safi]] [[Momand]] of [[Hazara District|Hazara]] district. He migrated to the [[Buner District|Buner]] territory. He was a pious man and in respect, the people called him Akhund Sahib.<ref>S.G. Page, pp. 398-399, T and C, in Ibbestson, ''N.W.F.P'', p. 11 etc</ref>
[[File:Statue of a Buddha seated on a lotus throne in Swat Valley.jpg|thumb|upright|An 1869 photo of a [[Buddha]] statue seated on a lotus throne in the [[Swat Valley]].]]
Although it is generally accepted that Tantric Buddhism first developed in Swat under King Indrabhuti, there is an old and well-known [[Indrabhuti#Conflation of Indrabhuti related to conflation of Oddiyana|scholarly dispute]] as to whether Uddiyana was in the Swat valley, Orissa or some other place. [[Padmasambhava]] (flourished eighth century AD), also called Guru Rimpoche, Tibetan Slob-dpon (teacher), or Padma ‘byung-gnas (lotus born) legendary Indian Buddhist mystic who introduced [[Tantric Buddhism]] to [[Tibet]] and is credited with establishing the first buddhist monastery there.According to tradition, [[Padmasambhava]] was native to Udyana (now Swat in Pakistan).<ref>[http://books.google.com/books?id=ISFBJarYX7YC&pg=PA138&dq=swat+padmasambhava&ei=5qpUSa65MImUMtnM8IcK Students' Britannica India By Dale Hoiberg, Indu Ramchandani Page 138]</ref> Padmasambhava was the son of Indrabhuti, king of Swat in the early eighth century AD. One of the original Siddhas, Indrabhuti flourished in the early eighth century AD and was the king of Uddiyana in the Kabul valley. His son Padmasambhava is revered as the second Buddha in Tibet. Indrabhuti's sister, Lakshminkaradevi, was also an accomplished siddha of the 9th century AD.<ref>Buddhist Art & Antiquities of Himachal Pradesh: Up to 8th Century A.D., by Omacanda Hāṇḍā Edition: illustrated Published by Indus Publishing, 1994 Page 89</ref>
Ancient [[Gandhara]], the valley of [[Pekhawar]], with the adjacent hilly regions of Swat and [[Buner District|Buner]], [[Dir, Pakistan|Dir]] and [[Bajaur]] was one of the earliest centers of [[Buddhist]] religion and culture following the reign of the [[Mauryan]] emperor [[Ashoka]], in the third century BC. The name Gandhara first occurs in the [[Rigveda]] which is usually identified with the region<ref>Architecture and Art Treasures in Pakistan By F. A. Khan, published by Elite Publishers, 1969</ref>
[[File:Buddhist-heritage swatvalley x002.JPG|thumb|left|Buddha heritage in the Swat Valley]]


The Swat museum has acquired footprints of the [[Buddha]], which were originally placed for devotion in the sacred Swat valley. When the Buddha ascended, relics (personal items, body parts, ashes etc.) were distributed to seven kings, who built [[stupa]]s over them for veneration.
During the mid-19th century, [[Muslim]] tribes fought against each other to control the Swat Valley. On the intervention of Akhund Sahib, the killing was stopped. The Islamic State of Swat was established in 1849 under Sayyid Akbar Shah, with Sharia law remaining in force. The chiefs of the tribes unanimously chose Akhund Sahib as the ruler of the valley in 1857. Akhund Sahib administered the valley according to Muslim laws. Agriculture and trade flourished.
[[File:Queen Elzabeth in Swat Valley-1.jpg|thumb|Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh visit to Swat Valley 1961-1962]]
The ''Harmarajika stupa'' ([[Taxila]]) and ''Butkarha (Swat) stupa'' at Jamal Garha were among the earliest [[Gandhara]] stupas. These were erected on the orders of [[Ashoka the Great|King Ashoka]] and contained the genuine relics of the historic Buddha.{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}}


[[File:Queen Elzabeth in Swat Valley.jpg|thumb|left|Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh visit to Swat Valley 1961-1962]]
After the death of Akhund Sahib, the tribal chiefs fell into open warfare again, which continued for years. The state was in abeyance from 1878 to 1915. At that time when there was no central controlling authority in Swat, [[Wali Ahmad (Sandakai Mulla)|Wali Ahmad]], known as [[Wali Ahmad (Sandakai Mulla)|Sandakai Mulla]], rose as an influential figure who struggled for the formation of Islamic government in Swat. He was surrounded by a force of fifty to sixty shaykhs (disciples) equipped with latest weapons, who were ready for every kind of action ordered by their pir (religious leader). His supporters increased day by day. He made Abdul Jabbar Shah as king in Swat in 1915, then drove him out and enthroned [[Miangul Abdul Wadud (Badshah Sahib)|Miangul Abdul Wadud]] as the ruler, playing the role of king maker and king breaker.<ref name="Khan 01">{{cite web|last=Khurshid|first=Khan|title=Sandakai Mullah: Career and Role in the Formation of Swat State, Pakistan|url=http://www.swatvalley.net/sandakai-mulla|publisher=Swatvalley.net|accessdate=5 April 2014}}</ref> The tribal chiefs gave full control of the valley into the hands of the [[Miangul Abdul Wadud (Badshah Sahib)|Gul Shahzada Abdul Wadood]] Gujjar, the son of Mian Gul Abdul Khaliq, son of Akhund Sahib. The wife of Mian Abdul Wadood was the daughter of Mirza Afzal-ul-Mulk, the ruler of Chitral. The British put Chitral under the [[suzerainty]] of [[Kashmir]]. The Chitral ruler gave two horses every year to the Rajia of Kashmir, and the Raja provided Chitral with grain and sugar, etc. Swat went under protection of the British.


During the Partition in 1947, during the rule of [[Miangul Jehanzeb|Mian Gul Muhammad, Abdul Haq Jehanzeb]] Gujjar, the son of [[Miangul Abdul Wadud (Badshah Sahib)|Mian Abdul Wadud]] Gujjar, the state acceded to Pakistan. The present prince, [[Miangul Aurangzeb]] Khan Gujjar, son of [[Miangul Jahan Zeb|Miangul Jahanzeb]] Gujjar, married the daughter of Field Marshal [[Mohammad Ayub Khan]] in 1955. By intermarriages with the other castes, the family developed strong relation with other nobles of the area, such as the Lala (Sayyeds) family. They supported the Royal family in administrative as well as in the military affairs of the state. [[Miangul Jahan Zeb|Jahanzeb]] Gujjar built Jahanzeb College at the capital of the State, and four high schools at [[Mingora]], Chakesar, Matta and Dagar. Fourteen middle schools, twenty-eight lower middle schools, and fifty-six primary schools were established. A girls' high school and high-class religious schools were established at [[Saidu Sharif]]. At all the schools, the poor students were granted scholarships.


The state was an exemplary state during British rule. The Gujjars were traditionally very poor people in the Swat Valley. They are gaining education and are holding good posts in government services. They also have a firm stand in politics of Pakistan. The current Prince [[Miangul Aurangzeb|Aurangzeb]] Gujjar also served as [[Governor of Baluchistan]] and as [[Governor of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]], Pakistan.


===Buddhist and Dardic heritage of Swat===
[[File:Statue of a Buddha seated on a lotus throne in Swat Valley.jpg|thumb|upright|An 1896 photo of a [[Buddha]] statue seated on a lotus throne in the [[Swat Valley]]]]
Although it is generally accepted that Tantric Buddhism first developed in the country of '''Uddiyana''' or '''Odra Desha''' under King Indrabhuti, there is a longstanding [[Indrabhuti#Conflation of Indrabhuti related to conflation of Oddiyana|scholarly dispute]] as to whether Uddiyana or Odra was in the Swat valley, Odisha, or some other place.
Some claim that [[Tantric Buddhism]] first developed in Swat under King [[Indrabhuti]].<ref>Italian Archeological Mission in Swat 2012</ref> Indrabhuti, one of the original ''[[Siddha]]s,'' flourished in the early eighth century AD and was the king of Oddiyana in the Kabul valley. His son [[Padmasambhava]], a legendary Buddhist mystic from the valley who introduced [[Tantric Buddhism]] to [[Tibet]], is credited with establishing the first Buddhist monastery here.<ref>[http://books.google.com/books?id=ISFBJarYX7YC&pg=PA138&dq=swat+padmasambhava&ei=5qpUSa65MImUMtnM8IcK Dale Hoiberg, ''Students' Britannica India''], Indu Ramchandani, p. 138</ref> Indrabhuti's sister, Lakshminkaradevi, was also an accomplished siddha of the 9th century AD.<ref>Omacanda Hāṇḍā, ''Buddhist Art & Antiquities of Himachal Pradesh: Up to 8th Century A.D.,'' Indus Publishing, 1994, p. 89</ref>


The Gandhara school is credited with the first representations of the Buddha in human form, rather symbolically as the wheel of the law, the tree, etc.{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}}
Ancient [[Gandhara]], the valley of [[Peshawar]] and [[Kabul River]], with the adjacent hilly regions of Swat and [[Buner District|Buner]], [[Dir, Pakistan|Dir]] and [[Bajaur]], was one of the earliest centers of [[Buddhist]] religion and culture following the reign of the [[Mauryan]] emperor [[Ashoka]], in the third century BC. The name Gandhara first occurs in the ''[[Rigveda]]'', which is usually identified with the region.<ref>F. A. Khan, ''Architecture and Art Treasures in Pakistan,'' Elite Publishers, 1969</ref>{{page needed|date=April 2014}}
[[File:Buddhist-heritage swatvalley x002.JPG|thumb|left|Buddha heritage in the Swat Valley]]


As [[Buddhist]] art developed and spread outside Gandhara, Gandharan styles were imitated. In [[China]] the Gandhara style was imitated in bronze images, with gradual changes in the features of these images over the passage of time. Swat, the land of romance and beauty, is celebrated throughout the Buddhist world as the holy land of Buddhist learning and piety. Swat was a popular destination for Buddhist pilgrims. Buddhist tradition holds that Buddha himself came to Swat during his incarnation as Gautama Buddha and preached to the people here.
The Swat museum has footprints of the [[Buddha]], which were originally placed for devotion in the sacred Swat valley. When the Buddha ascended, relics (personal items, body parts, ashes etc.) were distributed to seven kings, who built ''[[stupa]]s'' over them for veneration.


It is said{{By whom|date=October 2009}} that the Swat valley was filled with fourteen hundred imposing and beautiful stupas and monasteries, which housed as many as 6,000 gold images of the Buddhist pantheon for worship and education. Archaeologists now know of more than 400 Buddhist sites covering an area of 160&nbsp;km<sup>2</sup> in Swat valley alone. Among the important excavations of Buddhist sites in Swat an important one is Butkarha-I, containing original relics of the Buddha. A stone statue of Buddha, is still there in the village [[Ghalegay]].{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}} There is also a big stupa in Mohallah Singardar Ghalegay.{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}}
The ''Harmarajika stupa'' at [[Taxila]] and ''Butkarha (Swat) stupa'' at Jamal Garha were among the earliest Gandhara stupas. These were erected on the orders of [[Ashoka the Great|King Ashoka]] and contained the genuine relics of the historic Buddha.{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}} The Gandhara school is credited with the first representations of the Buddha in human form, symbolically as the wheel of the law, the tree, etc.{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}}


===Hindu Shahi Rulers and Sanskrit===
As Buddhist art developed and spread outside Gandhara, Gandharan styles were imitated. In [[China]] the Gandhara style was imitated in bronze images, with gradual changes in the features of these images over the passage of time. Swat is celebrated throughout the Buddhist world as the holy land of Buddhist learning and piety. Swat was a popular destination for Buddhist pilgrims. Buddhist tradition holds that Buddha came to Swat during his incarnation as Gautama Buddha and preached to the people here.
Swat was ruled by the Hindu [[Shahi]] dynasty who have built an extensive array of temples and other architectural buildings now in ruins. Sanskrit may have been the lingua franca of the Swatis.<ref>Sorrow and Joy Among Muslim Women The Pukthuns of Northern Pakistan By Amineh Ahmed Published by Cambridge University Press, 2006 Page 21.</ref>


Hindu Shahi rulers built fortresses to guard and tax the commerce through this area. Their ruins can be seen in the hills of Swat: at Malakand pass at Swat’s southern entrance.<ref>Swat: An Afghan Society in Pakistan: Urbanisation and Change in Tribal Environment By Inam-ur-Rahim, Alain M. Viaro Published by City Press, 2002 Page 59</ref>
At one time, the Swat valley was said to have 1400 stupas and monasteries, which held as many as 6,000 gold images of the Buddhist pantheon. Archaeologists have found more than 400 Buddhist sites, covering an area of 160&nbsp;km<sup>2</sup> in Swat valley alone. Among the important excavations of Buddhist sites is Butkarha-I, containing original relics of the Buddha. A stone statue of Buddha stands in the village [[Ghalegay]].{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}} There is also a big stupa in Mohallah Singardar Ghalegay.{{Citation needed|date=October 2009}}


===Advent of Islam by Mahmud of Ghazni===
===Kabul Shahi rulers===
At the end of the Mauryan period (324-185 BC) Buddhism spread in the whole Swat valley, which became a very famous center of Buddhist religion.<ref name=Barth>Fredrik Barth, ''Features of Person and Society in Swat: Collected Essays on Pathans'', illustrated edition, Routledge, 1981, page 20</ref>
Swat was ruled by the [[Kabul Shahi]] dynasty, who built an extensive array of temples and other architectural buildings. These are now in ruins.<ref>Amineh Ahmed, ''Sorrow and Joy Among Muslim Women: The Pukthuns of Northern Pakistan,'' Cambridge University Press, 2006, p. 21</ref>


After a Buddhist phase the Hindu religion reasserted itself, so that at the time of the Muslim conquest (1000 AD) the population was solidly Hindu.<ref name=Barth/>
Kabul Shahi rulers built fortresses to guard and tax the commerce through this area. Their ruins can be seen in the hills of Swat at Malakand Pass at Swat's southern entrance.<ref>Inam-ur-Rahim, Alain M. Viaro, ''Swat: An Afghan Society in Pakistan: Urbanisation and Change in Tribal Environment,'' City Press, 2002, p. 59</ref>
[[File:Saidu Sharif -2012.JPG|thumb|Capital of Swat Valley " Saidu Sharif "]]
[[File:Saidu Sharif Hospital-001.JPG|left|thumb|Saidu Sharif Hospital Eastern Block]]
[[File:Saidu Sharif hospital-002.JPG|left|thumb|Main Building of Saidu sharif Hospital]]
[[File:Aqba Mosque.JPG|thumb|left|Aqba Masjid]]


In 1023 Mahmood of Ghazni attacked Swat and crushed the last Buddhist King, Raja Gira in battle. The invasion of Mahmood of Ghazni is of special importance because of the introduction of Islam as well as changing the Chronology.<ref>Proceedings of the Second International Hindukush Cultural Conference By Elena Bashir, Israr-ud-Din Contributor Elena Bashir, Israr-ud-Din Published by Oxford University Press, 1990, Page 50</ref>
===Advent of Islam===
[[File:Zahir al-Din Muhammad Babur - Babur and his Party Hunting for Rhinoceros in Swati - Walters W59621B - Full Page.jpg|thumb|left|The first [[Mughal Emperor]] [[Babur]] and his servicemen hunt a [[Rhinoceros]] in Swati.]]


===Arrival Of Yousafzais===
At the end of the Mauryan period (324-185 BC), Buddhism spread in the whole Swat valley, which became a famous center of the religion.<ref name=Barth>Fredrik Barth, ''Features of Person and Society in Swat: Collected Essays on Pathans'', Routledge, 1981, p. 20</ref> The [[Hinduism|Hindu]] religion expanded again as Buddhism retreated east. By the time of the [[Muslim]] conquest (1000 AD), the population was mostly Hindu.<ref name=Barth/>


The first Muslim arrivals in Swat were Pakhtun [[Dilazak]] tribes from south-east Afghanistan. These were later ousted by [[Swati (tribe)|Swati]] Pakhtuns, who were succeeded in the sixteenth century by [[Yusufzai]] [[Pakhtuns]]. Both groups of [[Pakhtuns]] came from the Kandahar and Kabul valley.<ref name=Barth/>
In 1023, [[Mahmud of Ghazni|Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi]] conquered Swat and defeated the last Buddhist king, Raja Gira, in battle. The conquest by Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi is of special importance because he introduced [[Islam]]. In addition, he changed the way of telling time in history.<ref>Elena Bashir, Israr-ud-Din Contributor, ''Proceedings of the Second International Hindukush Cultural Conference,'' Oxford University Press, 1990, P. 50</ref> The discovery of [[Mahmud Ghaznavi Mosque(Odigram)]] in 1984,attests the splended architectural style of Ghaznaved period in Swat(1041-1050).<ref>{{cite news|title=Swat tourism: Historical mosque hopes for new life|author=Fazal Khaliq|date=March 3, 2011|url=http://tribune.com.pk/story/126723/swat-tourism-historical-mosque-hopes-for-new-life/|publisher=Express Tribune|accessdate=28 January 2014}}</ref> The Swat region became predominantly [[Muslim]] by the force of the rulers and [[missionary]] [[Sufi]] saints, whose [[dargah]]s dot the landscape of Swat.


===Arrival of Yousafzais===
===Geography===
The first [[Muslim]] arrivals in Swat were [[Pakhtun people|Pakhtun]] [[Dilazak]] tribes from south-east Afghanistan. These were later ousted by [[Swati (tribe)|Swati]] Pakhtuns. They were succeeded in the sixteenth century by [[Pakhtun people|Pakhtuns]]. Both groups of [[Pakhtun people|Pakhtuns]] came from the [[Kandahar]] and [[Kabul Valley]].<ref name=Barth/>
The valley of Swat is situated in the north of N.W.F.P, 35° North Latitude and 72° and 30° East Longitude, and is enclosed by the sky-high mountains.


Chitral and Gilgit are situated in the north, Dir in the west, and Mardan in the south, while Indus separates it from Hazara in the east.
==Geography==
Physical Features:
[[File:Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Districts Swat.svg|thumb|Map of Swat district]]
Swat can be divided into two physical regions:
The valley of Swat is situated in the north of [[Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]], 35° north latitude and 72° and 30° east longitude, and is enclosed by the mountains. [[Chitral]] and [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] are situated in the north, Dir in the west, and [[Mardan]] in the south. The Indus River separates it from [[Hazara, Pakistan|Hazara]] in the east.


# Mountainous Ranges.
Physical features:
# Plains.
Swat can be divided into two physical regions - mountains and plains.


===Mountain ranges===
===Mountainous Ranges===
[[File:Baine Baba Ziarat - Flickr - Al Jazeera English.jpg|thumb|View from Baine Baba Ziarat, looking southwest]]
[[File:Baine Baba Ziarat - Flickr - Al Jazeera English.jpg|thumb|View from Baine Baba Ziarat, looking southwest]]
Swat lies in the lap of mountain ranges, which are the offshoots of the Hindu Kush, so the larger part of Swat is covered with high mountains and hills. The ranges run irregularly: some to the west while the others to the east, but the general direction is north-south. The ranges enclose small valleys.
As mentioned above, Swat is lying in the lap of Mountainous Ranges, which are the offshoots of Hindukush, so the larger part of Swat is covered with high mountains and hills, the crests of which is hidden by everlasting snow. Though these gigantic Ranges run irregularly: some to the west while the others to the east, but the general direction is North-South. These ranges enclose small but very enchanting valleys.

'''Eastern Ranges:'''
In Kohistan-e-Swat the chief knot of eastern ranges is Mankial. Its northern branches separate Kohistan-e-Swat from Abasin Kohistan. These ranges form a barrier between Gilgit and Swat, and between Chitral and Swat. The southern extension of Mankial ranges reaches proper Swat. There they join Shangla ranges. Shangla ranges separate proper Swat from Shangla Par area (Shangla Par district).
In Shangla district, there are Karora Ranges, which separate Puran from Kanra and Ghurband.
The continuation of Shangla ranges joins Dwasaray. On the one hand Dwasaray separates lower Swat from Puran, on the other, it set aside the Buner from Puran.
Now the general Direction of the ranges turns westward. Here it is called Elum. Elum Ranges is a big wall between the proper Swat and Buner. The Elum ranges at last join mountains of Malakand.


'''Eastern ranges'''
* In Swat Kohistan, the chief knot of eastern ranges is Mankial.
* Its northern branches separate Swat Kohistan from Abasin Kohistan. These ranges form a barrier between Gilgit and Swat, and between Chitral and Swat.
* The southern extension of Mankial ranges reaches proper Swat. There they join Shangla ranges. Shangla ranges separate proper Swat from Shangla Par area (Shangla Par district).
* In Shangla district, there are Karora Ranges, which separate Puran from Kanra and Ghurband.
* The continuation of Shangla ranges joins Dwasaray. On the one hand Dwasaray separates lower Swat from Puran, on the other, it set aside the Buner from Puran.
* The general direction of the ranges now turns westward and are called Elum. Elum range is a big wall between the proper Swat and Buner. The Elum ranges at last join mountains of Malakand.
'''Western ranges'''
'''The Western Ranges''':
Western ranges start from the mountain and hills of Gabral, Kohistan-e-Swat. It joins the hills of Kundal (Utror). There these ranges meet Daral Ranges. These ranges form a border with Dir district. They run west ward and are named according to the locality. For example Lalko ranges Manrai and Chaprai etc. at last they join the hills of Adenzee and Shamozee. Manrai ranges send off some off shoots southward. They the hills separate Arnoyay valley from the widest valley of Nekpikheil valley.
* Western ranges start from the mountain and hills of Gabral, Swat Kohistan and join the hills of Kundal (Utror).

* There these ranges meet the Daral Ranges that form a border with Dir district. They run west ward and are named according to the locality. For example Lalko ranges Manrai and Chaprai etc.

* Then they join the hills of Adenzee and Shamozee.

* Manrai ranges send off some off shoots southward. They the hills separate Arnoyay valley from the widest valley of Nekpikheil valley.










===Plains===
===Plains===
The valley of Swat starts from the foothill of Malakand but this section is about Landakay to Gabral (Gulabad), the area within the administrative boundaries of Swat.
Actually the valley of Swat starts from the foothill of Malakand but we are concerned with portion from Landakay to Gabral (Gulabad), the area within the administrative boundaries of Swat.
The length of the valley from Landakay to Gabral is 91 miles. Two narrow strips of plains run along the banks of Swat River from Landakay to Madyan. Beyond Madyan in Kohistan-e-Swat, the plan is too little to be mentioned. So for as the width concerns, it is not similar, it varies from place to place. We can say that the average width is 5 miles. The widest portion of the valley is between Barikot and khwaza khela. The widest view point and the charming sight where a major portion of the valley is seen is at Gulibagh on main road, which leads to Madyan.
There are some subsidiary valleys, which help to increase the width of the main valley. These subsidiary valleys are called "Daras". A Dara a narrow passage between mountains, and sometimes, the upper course of a river is also called Dara. If we imagine the main valley as a stem of a tree the subsidiary valleys form its branches.
Swat River and its tributaries drain Swat. There fore, the whole valley is the outcome of running water. This flowing water cuts the upper courses deeply, and flows the load of washed away materials. As the gradient is greater in the upper course so the erosion is on large scale, particularly in the summer rains, when all the rivers are in flood. The big boulders and stones are rolled, which causes more destruction in the upper courses. When the loaded water reaches to the areas of low gradient, the heavier materials are deposited. The deposition takes place according to the slope, generally, we observe, that the upper course is made up of big boulders, the middle course is of relatively small stones, pebbles, and debris, while the lower course is made of fine clay. Anyhow, the whole plain of Swat valley is strewn by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil.


== Demographics ==
The length of the valley from Landakay to Gabral is 91 miles. Two narrow strips of plains run along the banks of Swat River from Landakay to Madyan. Beyond Madyan in Swat Kohistan, the width varies but the average width is 5 miles. The widest portion of the valley is between Barikot and Khwaza Khela. A good view point where a major portion of the valley is seen is at Gulibagh on main road, which leads to Madyan.
The population at the 1981 Census was 715,938, which had risen to 1,257,602 at the next Census in 1998. The main language of the area is [[Pashto language|Pakhto]]. The people of Swat are mainly [[Pashtun people|Pakhtuns],(Afghans) [[Yusufzai]]s, Akhund Khel Miangan (Syed), Chitralis, [[Kohistan District, Pakistan|Kohistan]] is, [[Gujjar|Gurjar]] (Gujar or Gurjar is the major tribe of the district; its people are divided in different clans like Khatana, Bajarh, Chichi, Ahir, Chuhan, Pamra, Gangal etc. are the main subtribe of the Gurjar family of Swat), Akhund khel Yousafzai, Nooristani, and [[Awan (Pakistan)|Awan]]s. Most probably they are originated from the same tribe that roamed around the great trans-Himalayan mountain ranges thousands of years before, and now remained in some isolated pockets of the Himalayan mountain ranges.{{Citation needed|date=July 2010}}
There are some subsidiary valleys called "Daras". A Dara is a narrow passage between mountains, and sometimes, the upper course of a river is also called Dara. Imagining the main valley as a stem of a tree the subsidiary valleys form its branches.
Swat River and its tributaries drain Swat. The boulders and stones are rolled, which causes destruction in the upper courses. When the loaded water reaches areas of low gradient, the heavier materials are deposited. The whole plain of Swat valley is strewn by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil.


The [[Dardic people]] of the [[Kalam valley|Kalam]] region in northern Swat are known as [[Kohistan District, Pakistan|Kohistan]] is and speak the [[Torwali language|Torwali]] and [[Kalami language|Kalami]] languages. There are also some [[Khowar language|Khowar]] speakers in the Kalam region. This is because before [[Kalam valley|Kalam]] came under the rule of Swat, it was a regional tributary to [[State of Chitral|Chitral]]. The Kalamis paid a tribute of mountain ponies to the Mehtar of Chitral every year.
==Cultural diversity==
{{Refimprove section|date=January 2013}}


==Tourist attractions==
In Swat seven languages are spoken. Besides [[Pashto]], the majority language, [[Torwali language|Torwali]], [[Gujari language|Gujri]], [[Kalami language|Gawri]], [[Qashqari]], [[Ushoji language|Ushojo]] and [[Badeshi language|Badeshi]] are also spoken in Swat, although Badeshi and Ushojo are now moribund.
===Marghazar===
Gujri is a commonly known language in Pakistan and its speakers are scattered throughout the whole Swat; however, other languages are much less well known. Torwali, Gawri, Qashqari (a variety of [[Khowar language|Khowar/Chitrali]] language), Ushojo and Badeshi are all among the [[Dardic languages|Dardic]] group of languages of the [[Indo-Aryan languages|Indo-Aryan]] family.
[[File:marghazar swatvalley x012.JPG|thumb|left|Sufid Mahal Marghazar [[Swat valley]]]]


Marghazar 16&nbsp;km away from Saidu Sharif is famous for its “Sufed Mahal” the white marble palace of the former Wali (Ruler) of Swat.
The Torwali community is said to be descended from the original inhabitants of pre-Muslim Swat, before the invasion of Swat in the second millennium. Recent research, and excavation (2012) by the Italian Archeological Mission in Swat, show traces that suggest that the Torwali community was inhabiting Swat even before the Buddhist and Hindu period.<ref>Inam-ur-Rahim, Alain M. Viaro, Swat: An Afghan Society in Pakistan: Urbanisation and Change in Tribal Environment, City Press, 2002</ref> The region between the [[Hindu Kush]] and the [[Himalayas]] &ndash; from [[Nuristan]] and [[Laghman Province|Laghman]] provinces in [[Afghanistan]] to the bottom of Himalaya including Indian [[Kashmir]] via the ranges of Karakorum &ndash; was the land of [[Dardic people|Dardic]] or [[Darada]] (a Romanized name for Herodotus' Dadakai) people, with indigenous worldviews different from the major religions. The Torwali community is now confined to a part of Swat Kohistan &ndash; the upper narrow but beautiful valley beyond the town of [[Madyan, Pakistan|Madyan]] up to the boundary of [[Kalam, Swat|Kalam]] in the north; and to the [[Chail Valley]] to the east of Madyan. The speakers are a little over 100,000 people.{{Citation needed|date=January 2013}}


===Malam Jabba===
Gawri, another Dardic language, is confined to Kalam and [[Utror]] valleys with about 60,000 speakers; however, a considerable number of Gawri language speakers also dwell in the Kohistan of [[Upper Dir]] generally known as Dir Kohistan.
[[Image:Malam Jabba Ski Resort.jpg|thumb|250px|right|[[Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation|PTDC]] Motel at [[Malam Jabba]] Ski Resort]]
Malam Jabba (also Maalam Jabba, Urdu: مالم جبہ) is a Hill Station in the Karakoram mountain range nearly 40&nbsp;km from Saidu Sharif in Swat Valley, Peshawar, Pakistan. It is 314&nbsp;km from Islamabad and 51&nbsp;km from Saidu Sharif Airport.Malam Jabba is home to the largest ski resort in Pakistan. The Malam Jabba Ski Resort, owned by the Pakistani Tourism Development Corporation, had a ski slope of about 800m with the highest point of the slope 2804&nbsp;m (9200&nbsp;ft) above sea level. Malam Jabba Ski Resort was the joint effort of the Pakistan government with its Austrian counterpart. The resort was equipped with modern facilities including roller/ice-skating rinks, chair lifts, skiing platforms, telephones and snow clearing equipment.


===Swat Museum===
Qashqari is a variety of Khawar, which is also a Dardic language. Qashqari is spoken by a few thousand people in Kalam and [[Mitiltan]].
Swat Museum is on the east side of the street, halfway between Mingora and Saidu. Japanese aid has given a facelift to its seven galleries which now contain an excellent collection of Gandhara sculptures taken from some of the Buddhist sites in Swat, rearranged and labelled to illustrate the Buddha's life story. Terracotta figurines and utensils, beads, precious stones, coins, weapons and various metal objects illustrate daily life in Gandhara. The ethnographic section displays the finest examples of local embroidery, carved wood and tribal jewellery.
For the last three years the museum is occupied by Pakistan army and it is not known when they would be leaving it.
Ushojo is now moribund. It is Dardic in origin and resembles the [[Shina language]] of [[Gilgit]]. It has now a few hundred speakers. Badeshi is now completely extinct; its last two speakers died a couple of years back.{{Citation needed|date=January 2013}}{{Clarify timeframe}}


===Miandam===
The situation of Ushojo and Badeshi is critical. While Badeshi is no longer alive Ushojo is on the verge of death as no documentation or preservation has occurred.
Miandam is a small summer resort ten kilometres (six miles) up a steep side valley and {{convert|56|km|mi|sp=us}} from Saidu Sharif, making it an hour's drive. The metaled road passes small villages stacked up the hillside, the roofs of one row of houses forming the street for the row of houses above. Tiny terraced fields march up the hillside right to the top. Miandam is a good place for walkers. Paths follow the stream, past houses with behives set into the walls and good-luck charms whitewashed around the doors. In the graveyards are carved wooden grave posts with floral designs, like those used by Buddhists 1,000 years ago.
<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thenews.com.pk/Todays-News-9-128488-The-ignored-Dardic-culture |title=The ignored Dardic culture - Zubair Torwali |publisher=Thenews.com.pk |date= |accessdate=2013-07-12}}</ref>
<!--
Now, my readers, you might have come to the notion that how diverse and beautiful a bouquet our Swat is. --[[User:Zubair Torwali|Zubair Torwali]] ([[User talk:Zubair Torwali|talk]]) 21:37, 28 January 2013 (UTC)Zubair Torwali, researcher, social activist and writer. CEO Idara Baraye Taleem-o-Taraqi (IBT), Bahrain Swat. www.ibtswat.org -->


===Madyan===
== Administration ==
By the time you reach this small town at 1320 m and about 60&nbsp;km from Mingora, the mountains have closed in and the valley is almost snug. Here one senses why Swat is so popular among the tourists. There are a lot of embroidered shawls in the Bazars of Madyan.At 1,321 metres (4,335 feet) above sea level,but it is a larger town and has many hotels in all price ranges and some good tourist shopping. Antique and modern shawls, traditional embroidery, tribal jewellery, carved wood and antique or reproduced coins are sold along the main street. This is the last Swati village, offering interesting two-and three-day walks up to the mountain villages... ask in the bazaar in Muambar Khan's shop for a guide. North of Madyan is Swat Kohistan where walking is not recommended without an armed guard.
The region has gone through considerable changes since the dissolution of the [[Swat (princely state)|princely state]] in 1969. Members of the former Royal family have on occasion been elected to represent the area in the Provincial Assembly and National Assembly.
The central mosque at Madyan has carved wooden pillars with elegant scroll capitals, and its mud-plastered west wall is covered with relief designs in floral motifs. Both bespeak the Swati's love of decoration.<ref>http://www.madyanguesthouse.com</ref>


===Behrain===
The region elects two male and one female members of the [[National Assembly of Pakistan]] (MNAs). It elects seven male and two female members of the [[Provincial Assembly of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]] (MPAs).<ref>[http://www.panwfp.gov.pk/index.php/members/bydistrict/en/9/57 Constituencies and MPAs - Website of the Provincial Assembly of the N-W.F.P]</ref>
[[File:Bahrain swatvalley x001.JPG|thumb|[[Behrain]], [[Swat valley]]]]


A quarter of an hour past Madyan, the road squeezes through Behrain. Tourists stop to shop or have a look around for beautiful carved wood chairs and tables and other handicrafts. Behrainis are a mix of Pashtuns and Kohistanis. Behrain is ten kilometres north of Madyan and only slightly higher, at about 1,400 metres (4,500 feet). It is another popular riverside tourist resort, with bazaars worth exploring for their handicrafts. Some of the houses have carved wooden doors, pillars and balconies. These show a remarkable variety of decorative motifs, including floral scrolls and bands of ornamental diaper patterns almost identical to those seen on Buddhist shrines and quite different from the usual Muslim designs.
In the 2002 National and Provincial elections, the [[Muttahida Majlis-e-Amal]], an alliance of [[islamism|islamist]] political parties, won all the seats amidst a wave of anti-Americanism that spread after the [[War in Afghanistan (2001–present)|United States' invasion of Afghanistan]] joining the [[Afghan Northern Alliance|Northern Alliance]] against the [[Taliban]].


==Education==
===Kalam===
[[File:Kalam swatvalley x006.JPG|thumb|left|[[Kalam]], [[Swat valley]]]]


2070 m high and 100&nbsp;km from Mingora, it was the centre of an independent state in the 19th century. It was later taken by Chitral then given to Swat after partition.Kalam, {{convert|29|km|mi}} from Bahrain and about 2,000 metres (6,800 feet) above sea level, the valley opens out, providing rooms for a small but fertile plateau above the river. In Kalam the Ushu and Utrot rivers join to form the Swat river. Here, the metalled road ends and shingle road leads to the Ushu and Utrot valleys. From Matiltan one gets a breath-taking view of the snow-capped Mount Falaksir 5918 metres (19,415&nbsp;ft.), and another unnamed peak 6096 metres (20,000&nbsp;ft.) high.
Swat has many schools and colleges (public and private) along with a government chattered university. The largest college of the district, P.G Jahanzeb College in Saidu Sharif, was built in 1952 and offers MSc (to males and females), BSc and Fsc degrees (male only).<ref>http://www.jc.edu.pk/</ref>


[[File:Usho swatvalley x009.JPG|thumb|[[Usho]], [[Swat valley]]]]
Saidu Medical College, built in 1998, ranks 3rd in the government medical colleges in the province.<ref>http://www.smcswat.edu.pk/</ref>
On 7 July 2010, The University of Swat was established, the first university of the district.
.<ref>http://uswat.edu.pk/</ref>


===Usho===
The valley has many graduate colleges like GDC Mingora, GGDC Saidu Sharif, GGDC Khwaza Khela, GPGC Matta and GDC Madyan. Private schools of Swat like SPS College Rahim Abad,<ref>http://spscollege.edu.pk/</ref> Excelsior College Sangota, Sangota Public School, etc. are known for their high academic progress throughout the province.


Usho 3&nbsp;km from [[Kalam Valley]] and 117&nbsp;km from [[Saidu Sharif]]
==Economy==


===Utror===
Approx 38% of economy of Swat depends on Tourism, and 31% depends on Agriculture.{{Citation needed|date=February 2013}}
[[File:Utror swatvalley x011.JPG|thumb|left|[[Utror]], Swat Valley]]
Utror 16&nbsp;km from Kalam Valley and 120&nbsp;km from Saidu Sharif. [[Utror]] valley is situated between 35° 20′ to 35° 48′ N latitudes and 72° 12′ and 72° 32′ E longitudes. The population of Utror is 6888 and the area of the valley is about 47400 hectares. Utror valley is surrounded by Gabral and Bhan valleys on the east, upper Dir district on the west, Kalam valley on the south and Gabral valley on the north. It is 15&nbsp;km from Kalam, the centre of Swat Kohistan. The altitude of the valley at Utror proper is 2300 meters and reaches to 2900 meters at Kandol Lake.

===Ghabral===
[[File:Ghabral swatvalley x003.JPG|thumb|right|[[Ghabral]], Swat Valley]]

Gabral valley lies between 35° 20′ to 35° 48′ N latitudes and 72° 12′ and 72° 32′ E longitudes over an area of about 38733 hectares. The population of Gabral is 3238. The valley is surrounded by Chitral District in the north, Utror valley in the south and south west, upper Dir district in the west and Bhan and Mahodand valleys in the east. It is 5&nbsp;km distant from Utror proper and 20&nbsp;km from Kalam. The altitude of the valley ranges from 2580 metres at Baila to 5160 metres at Karkaray Lake top.In Utror and Gabral, 44 medicinal plants are collected during the months of May, June, July and August. Only 14 of them are traded to National and International markets while the rest are used locally. A survey by Pakistan Forest Institute concludes that 75 crude herbal drugs are extensively exported and more than 200 are locally traded in Pakistan. Indigenous people, who have no training in sustainable harvesting, post-harvesting care and storing of medicinal plants, collect 85 percent of these crude herbs from the wild.

[[File:Lake Swatvalley x103.JPG|thumb|left|[[Kundol Lake]], Swat valley]]

===Mahudan===
Mahodand valley, which lies in the North of Kalam, is famous not only among nature lovers, and escapists but also the exotic trout fish hunters. The valley can be accessed through an un-metalled road from Kalam in a four by four (4x4) vehicle. The road is bumpy and tricky but the surrounding landscapes engrosses you so severely that you wish for more and expect to discover new panoramas. The small hamlets that are scattered in the mountains and the bellowing smoke that spirals into the sky from the houses are some, which lives in the memory forever. Swat River, which is born here, is shackled by the tall mountains, which has turned its water into a roaring monster trying to release itself from its fetters, but there are some places where the river is calm and silent without showing any sign of rebellion.
[[File:Swatvalley x 104.JPG|thumb|On the way to shahi bagh Lake [[Swat valley]]]]
[[File:Lake Swatvalley x100.JPG|thumb|left|Kundol Lake [[Swat valley]]]]
[[File:Swatvalley A 009.JPG|thumb|left|Snow cover Mountain in [[Swat valley]]]]
[[File:Utror swatvalley x012.JPG|thumb|left|A cloudy mountain in Utror [[Swat valley]]]]
[[File:Spin Khwar Lake Swat Valley.jpg|thumb|Spin Khwar Lake [[Swat valley]]]]

===Pari (Khapiro) lake===
Pari Lake is one of the lakes in Swat region which is located at a very high altitude in the foot of the tallest peak in the range with a considerable depth. The name Pari or Khapiro is given to the lake due to the widespread belief that the lake is the abode of fairies where they live and bathe in the cool, pure and clear water of the lake. It is located to North-east of Utror valley and can be accessed only by trekking. Trekking to the lake needs endurance and love for nature as the trail is exasperating as well as dangerous therefore, utmost care should be taken while trekking on the narrow bends and turns leading to the lake. The lake is accessible from both Izmis and Kundal lakes. Two ascending tracks lead to this lake from Kundal and Izmis lakes taking almost five hours to reach this roof top of Swat. The trail is very steep from both sides but the surrounding beauty and eye-cooling green pastures and exotic flowers not only boost the trekker’s stamina but compel him to explore further.

===Kundol Lake===
The pastoral valley of Swat has abundance of precious resorts of nature where one can find solace and respite from the never-ending struggle of life. Kundal or Kandolo Lake is one such place here upon which the Maestro of nature has spent extra time and effort to paint. Kundal Lake is situated in the north of Utror valley. One can easily access it from Kalam via Utror from where a link road ends in a green valley called Ladu in the foothills of the lake. You can either hike to Ladu from Utror or take a four-wheeler to ease and minimize your journey. It consumes almost two hours to reach the beautiful valley of Ladu. For the adventurous kind, a walk in the romantic valley will unravel several new mysteries. The people who take temporary residency over here during summer plow the open land and harvest potatoes and turnips, which are famous all over the country for its exotic taste. There is also a small hut in Ladu where you can take tea and get something for eating. From Ladu it takes almost four hours to reach the lake. Some locals can guide you and even take your luggage if properly paid. The mountains around this small valley are covered with tall cedar and pine trees and meandered by different streams and torrents. The people are friendly and provide you guidance if required.

===Bashigram Lake===
Bashigram Lake is situated to the east of Bashigram valley near Madyan. The road to this valley is partly metaled and can be plied by a four by four or any ordinary vehicle. It takes almost forty to fifty minutes to reach this picturesque valley inhibited by simple and hospitable folk. From here, trekking of four to five hours, depending on professionalism and enthusiasm of the trekkers lands you in the realm of a serene and enchanting lake of Bashigram.

===Spin Khwar (White Stream) Lake===
Spin Khwar is a beautiful lake hidden in the lap of mountains towards the north of Kundal Lake and east of Utror valley. The name Spin Khwar has a clear significance as a small white stream in the east flows down to the lake from the surrounding mountains and is a major source of water for the lake. The lake is accessible through two tracks, one from Kundal and the other from Ladu valley. The track from Ladu is comparatively easy to walk and less tiring while the track from Kundal is not only difficult but alarmingly dangerous although it is short and links Kundal and Spin Khwar. Its steepness and dangerous bends needs an experienced trekker and unending physical strength. The grazers in the area have built small huts and a mosque where one can stay but a personal tent is more recommendable as these huts are in a poor condition due to lack of maintenance.

===Daral Lake===
Daral lake is situated to the northeast of Sidgai Lake and can be accessed through Saidgai after two three hours rigorous trekking. The trail to Daral is full of fun and amusement because it runs over sky touching heights of the mountains provides spectacular sights and panoramas for the beauty hungry eyes of nature lovers. A close look towards the south will reveal the long and winding sellouts of river Swat in the horizon.After walking and trekking for about two and a half hours on bare and naked mountains, the trail start descending towards the East where Daral Lake is located.

== Administration ==
The region has gone through considerable changes over the last few years since the dissolution of the [[Swat (princely state)|princely state]] in 1969. Members of the former Royal family have since on occasion been elected to represent the area in the Provincial Assembly and National Assembly.


=== Provincial & national politics ===
'''Wild life'''
The region elects two male members of the [[National Assembly of Pakistan]] (MNAs), one female MNA, seven male members of the [[Provincial Assembly of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]] (MPAs)<ref>[http://www.panwfp.gov.pk/index.php/members/bydistrict/en/9/57 Constituencies and MPAs - Website of the Provincial Assembly of the N-W.F.P]</ref> and two female MPAs. In the 2002 National and Provincial elections, the [[Muttahida Majlis-e-Amal]], an alliance of religious political parties, won all the seats amidst a wave of anti-Americanism that spread after the United States' invasion of Afghanistan.
When shrubs and bushes covered slopes and foothill areas, hares, porcupine, fox, jackal, wolf, pigs, and hyenas were in large number. Deforestation has resulted from the residents' use of wood as fuel, and wildlife has decreased with the loss of habitat. In the forests, monkeys are often found.


'''Wild Life:'''
Hawks, eagles, and falcons are found in the high mountains, while pheasants, partridges, hoopoes, larks, sparrows, quails, doves, swallows, starlings, nightingales, crows, kites, vultures, owls, bates are the common birds.
In early days when the shrubs and bushes covered slopes and foothill areas,hares, porcupine, fox, jackal, wolf, pigs, and hyenas were in large number. Now the need for fuels decreased the scrubs and trees, so these animals have decreased considerably.
In the forests,monkeys are often found.
Among the birds: hawks, eagles, falcons are found in the high mountains, while pheasants, partridges, hoopoes, larks, sparrows, quails, doves, swallows, starlings, nightingales, crows, kites, vultures, owls, bates are the common birds.


'''Bees:'''
'''Bees:'''
The bees were kept in Swat commonly, and the honey was famous all over the country. But now the moveable beehives have affected the Swat locally reared bees greatly. Now, the local good honey is found in remote areas only, while the honey of moveable hives is available everywhere at low prices.
The bees were kept in Swat commonly, and the pure honey of was famous all over the country. But now the moveable beehives have affected the Swat locally reared bees greatly. Now, the local good honey is found in remote areas only, while the honey of moveable hives is available everywhere in low prices.
[[File:Trout-fish-in-ghabral.JPG|thumb|left|Trout of Swat valley]]
[[File:Trout-fish-in-ghabral.JPG|thumb|left| Famous Trout Fish of [[Swat valley]]]]
[[File:Emerald of Swat Valley.jpg|thumb|Emerald of Swat Valley]]
[[File:Emerald of Swat Valley.jpg|thumb|Emerald of Swat Valley [[Swat valley]]]]
'''Fisheries'''
'''Fisheries:'''
There is a large fishery in Madyan where trout fish are reared. Swat Kohistan operates some private fisheries. In Buner the fish are reared in Barandu, Dagar. The Swat River serves as a permanent fishery throughout the year, while its tributaries are used for fishing only in spring.
There is a large fishery in Madyan. In this fishery the trout fish are being reared. In Kohistan-e-Swat there are some private fisheries too.
In Buner the fish were being reared in Barandu, Dagar.
Moreover the Swat River serves as a permanent fishery throughout the year while the tributaries of it are used for fishing only in spring season.


'''Mineral resources'''
'''Mineral Resources:'''
Mines' production plays an important role in the economy of a country because local people get the opportunities to earn their livelihood. But the Swati mines have no importance for the local people in this respect. Swat's mineral wealth is mainly in china clay, marble and emerald.
Mines' production plays an important role in the economy of a country, particularly in the regions where they exist, because, the local people get the opportunities to labor in, and earn their livelihood. But the Swati mines have no importance for the local people in this respect. It is necessary, however, to mention what they are, and where do they exist.
Swat is rich in mineral wealth, but the discovered commodities are a few. Among them, the china clay stands first; others are marble stone, and emerald.


'''China clay:'''
'''China Clay:'''
China clay exists at "Kathyar" in Nekpikheil (on the road that leads to Shahderai at a distance of 15 miles from Mingora). This is the largest mine, having the finest quality, of china clay in Pakistan. The clay is mined here, and is transported to Shaidu in Nawshehra (which is at a distance of around 100 miles from Swat). It is not so advantageous for the local people, because they have no opportunity to work in the complex.
The china clay exists at “Kathyar” in Nekpikheil (on the road that leads to Shahderai at a distance of 15 miles from Mingora). This is the largest mine, having the finest quality, of China clay in Pakistan. The clay is mined here, and is transported to Shaidu in Nawshehra (which is at a distance of around 100 miles from Swat). It is not so advantageous for the local people, because they have no opportunity to work in the complex.


'''Soap clay'''
'''Soap Clay:'''
Soap clay has been discovered between Alpurai and Kanra on the side of Gilgit Road (Shahrah-e-Resham).
The mine of soap clay has been discovered recently between Alpurai and Kanra on the side of Gilgit Road (Shahrah-e-Resham). It is spread in a vast area.


'''Marble'''
'''Marbles:'''
Marble is dug near Charbagh, Murghuzar, and Barikot in the proper valley of Swat. In Buner, it is mined in Thor Warsak, Bampokha, and Sawawai.
The marbles are dug near Charbagh, Murghuzar, and Barikot in the proper valley of Swat, and in Buner, it is mined in Thor Warsak, Bampokha, and Sawawai.
Moreover, there is a great expectation of iron ores, which will be discovered in near future.


'''Emerald'''
'''Emerald:'''
The finest quality of emerald is produced in Swat. Its Color and transparency is unique. It is the best in world. It is exported to the international markets: There is an export potential of 500 million dollars in this sector, provided it is excavated and cut as per international standards.
Emeralds are mined in Swat and exported to international markets.
Before the absorption of Swat in Pakistan, the emeralds of Swat were better in quality, and greater in quantity. But since then it is said that the quantity of production is little, and the quality devalued.


'''Industries'''
'''Industries:'''

'''Handicrafts'''
'''Handicrafts:'''
The handicrafts of Swat are famous.
The handicrafts of Swat are very famous. When a tourist visits Swat, he accumulates bundles of these articles as gifts for his friends. All of the crafts prepared here are interesting, especially, the following are very charming.
[[File:Stone art in swat valley-2.jpg|thumb|Stone art in Swat Valley]]
[[File:Stone art in swat valley-2.jpg|thumb|Stone art in Swat Valley]]
[[File:Stone art in swat valley-1.jpg|thumb|left|Stone art in Swat Valley]]
[[File:Stone art in swat valley-1.jpg|thumb|left|Stone art in Swat Valley]]
'''Woolen blankets:'''
'''Woolen Blankets:'''
These blankets are known as "Sharai". They are made of wool obtained from the local sheep. The weight of a medium-size blanket is four kilos. These heavy blankets provide the best source of warmth during severe winters. The blankets are woven in Dewlai, Kala Kalay, Salampur, Puran, and Ghurband. These villages produce the items on a commercial scale.
These blankets are known as "Sharai". They are prepared of wool obtained from the local sheep. The weight of a medium size blanket is four kilos. This is the best source of defense from the severity of winter. It is woven in Dewlai, Kala Kalay, Salampur, Puran, and Ghurband. These villages prepare the items on commercial scale.

'''Shawl:'''
Shawl is a younger brother of Sharai, as it is also a woolen sheet, but light in weight. Sometimes, cotton is also mixed in its texture. It is beautifully fringed, and is commonly used by ladies. The tourists like it too much. Shawls are prepared in Salampur and Dewlai "Jolabad" on commercial bases.


'''Shawls'''
'''Rugs:'''
The next important thing, made of local fleece with laborious work, is rug. This is prepared in the villages by pressing wool with the help of water spray. After preparation, it is beautified with the usage of various colors. Rugs are the traditional carpets of shepherds, but now are used everywhere.
Shawls are woolen sheets, light in weight. Sometimes, cotton is added. Shawls are produced in Salampur and Dewlai "Jolabad".


'''Rugs'''
'''Embroidery:'''
The embroidery of Swat is very famous, and is liked everywhere in Pakistan, as well as by the out-comers. This art is an indoor hobby of the ladies in Swat. Particularly in Nekpikheil, this is so common that very younger girls might also be seen having needlework in their hands. There are three types of embroidery:
Rugs are made from local fleeces, prepared in the villages by pressing wool with the help of water spray. After preparation, the wool is beautified with the use of color. Rugs were the traditional carpets of shepherds, but now are used everywhere.


'''Embroidery'''
'''Panrae or Panhey:'''
The embroidery of Swat is famous. This art is an indoor hobby of the ladies in Swat, particularly in Nekpikheil. There are three types of embroidery: Panrey or Panrhey is the traditional embroidery of shoes, still used by the old persons in Swat. They are made in Swat with tanned leather. The cobblers make ladies' shoes and sandals adorned with golden lace work.
Panrey or Panrhey is the old fashion of shoes, still used by the old persons in Swat. They are made in Swat with the simply tanned leather. The cobblers have great skill in the formation of ladies shoes with golden lace work. Similarly, the sandals with golden lace work are also made. The cobblers of Shahderai had great skill in this field. It is now archaic.


'''Shkor'''
'''Shkor:'''
A Shkor is a pot in which [[chapatis]] (bread used in India and Pakistan) are kept. The ordinary Shkors are prepared everywhere in Swat. A special design is made in Puran and Chagharzee. (These Shkors are high-based pots made of wheat stalks with art, not easily available in bazaar).
A Shkor is a pot in which chapatis (plate bread used in India and Pakistan) are kept. The ordinary Shkors are prepared everywhere in Swat, but a special design is made in Puran and Chagharzee (These Shkors are high-based pots made of wheat stalks with laborious art, not easily available in bazaar).


'''Furniture'''
'''Furniture:'''
Furniture, such as cots, tables, chairs, dressing tables, and cradles, is made in Mingora, and in nearly all large villages.
Furniture of various styles is made in the district. The cots, tables, chairs, dressing tables, cradles of more advanced types, etc. are furnished in Mingora, and in nearly all large villages.


{{wide image|Saidu Sharif in Panorama view.JPG|1150px|height=30|Saidu Sharif Capital of [[Swat Valley]] in Panorama View 2012.}}
==Gallery==
{{wide image|Saidu Sharif in Panorama view.JPG|1150px|height=30|Saidu Sharif, capital of [[Swat Valley]] in panorama view }}


==See also==
==See also==
Line 240: Line 289:
* [[Lower Swat Valley]]
* [[Lower Swat Valley]]
* [[Oḍḍiyāna]]
* [[Oḍḍiyāna]]
* [[Swati language (Pakistan)]]


== References ==
== References ==
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==External links==
==External links==
{{Commons category|Swat Valley}}
{{Commons category|Swat Valley}}
* [http://www.valleyswat.net/literature/papers/Administrative_System_of_Swat.pdf Administrative System of Swat]

* [http://www.swatvalley.com Swatvalley.com]
* [http://www.valleyswat.net Valley Swat Site]
* [http://www.swatvalley.org Swat Under the Reign of Terror (News blog)]
* [http://www.dharmafellowship.org/library/essays/uddiyana.htm Uddiyana Until the Eighth Century: A Short Historical Overview -The Dharma Fellowship of his holiness Gyalwa Karmapa]
* [http://www.panoramio.com/user/2000119?comment_page=1&photo_page=6 Pictures of Swat]
* [http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=1571170219 New Pictures of Swatvalley]
{{Districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa}}
{{Districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa}}


{{Coord|34|46|58|N|72|21|43|E|display=title|region:PK_type:city}}
{{Coord|35|23|N|72|11|E|display=title|region:PK_type:city_source:GNS-enwiki}}


[[Category:Hill stations in Pakistan]]
[[Category:Hill stations in Pakistan]]
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[[Category:Valleys of Pakistan]]
[[Category:Valleys of Pakistan]]
[[Category:Indus basin]]
[[Category:Indus basin]]
[[Category:Districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]]
[[Category:Pre-Islamic heritage of Pakistan]]

[[Category:Visitor attractions in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]]
[[ar:سوات]]
[[Category:Tourism in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa]]
[[cs:Svát]]
[[cy:Swat]]
[[da:Swat (Pakistan)]]
[[de:Swat (Distrikt)]]
[[fa:سوات]]
[[fr:District de Swat]]
[[ko:스와트 (파키스탄)]]
[[hi:स्वात]]
[[ia:Swat]]
[[it:Swat (Pakistan)]]
[[nl:Swat]]
[[no:Swat (Pakistan)]]
[[pnb:ضلع سوات]]
[[ps:د سوات ولسوالۍ]]
[[pl:Dolina Swat]]
[[pt:Swat (Paquistão)]]
[[ru:Сват (Пакистан)]]
[[simple:Swat District]]
[[sh:Swat (Pakistan)]]
[[fi:Swatin laakso]]
[[sv:Swat]]
[[te:స్వాత్ లోయ]]
[[ur:سوات]]
[[wuu:斯伐脱县]]
[[zh:斯瓦特县]]

Revision as of 21:34, 11 April 2014

Swat District
سوات
Location of Swat District (highlighted in yellow) within the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa Province of Pakistan.
Location of Swat District (highlighted in yellow) within the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa Province of Pakistan.
CountryPakistan
ProvinceKhyber Pakhtunkhwa Province
CapitalSaidu Sharif
Area
 • Total
5,337 km2 (2,061 sq mi)
Population
 (1998)
 • Total
1,257,602
 • Density236/km2 (610/sq mi)
Time zoneUTC+5 (PST)
Area codeArea code 946
Website"www.swatdirectory.com" m "www.tourswat.com"

Swat (Template:IPA-ur, Pashto: سوات) is a valley and an administrative district in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province, located close to the Afghan-Pakistan border. It is the upper valley of the Swat River, which rises in the Hindu Kush range. The capital of Swat is Saidu Sharif, but the main town in the Swat valley is Mingora.[1] It was a princely state (see Swat (princely state)) in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa until it was dissolved in 1969. The valley is almost entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns (Afghans). The language spoken in the valley is Pashto/Pakhto. With high mountains, green meadows, and clear lakes, it is a place of great natural beauty and is popular with tourists as "the Switzerland of the region".

History

Swat has been inhabited for over two thousand years. The first inhabitants were settled in well-planned towns. In 327 BC, Alexander the Great fought his way to Udegram and Barikot and stormed their battlements. In Greek accounts these towns have been identified as Ora and Bazira. Around the 2nd century BC, the area was occupied by Buddhists, who were attracted by the peace and serenity of the land. There are many remains that testify to their skills as sculptors and architects. In the beginning of the 8th century AD, Gabari Royal Tajik tribe advanced through Laghmanat, ningarhar, Dir and invaded Swat, defeating the Buddhists and the Hindus. This war was headed by Sultan Pakhal Gabari and later on by Sultan Behram Gabari Rulers of Kuner Pich and cousin of Rulers of Balkh and Kashmir. Later some Dilazak encrouched tha area and settled among Gabaris, who in turn were ousted by the Yusufzais which was backed by Mughal Badshah Zahiruddin Muhammad Baber, considered the super power in 1519 and 1520. The historical paradox was that the Yusufzais were ousted from Kabul by Mirza Ullegh beg, the uncle of Baber, and killed 600 malak of Yusufzai; the Gabaris helped Yousofzais refugees with a warm welcome and settled them in Bajour Dir and Swat regions. The Yousofzais forgot the generosity of Gabaris and encrouched upon the Gabari state with the plotted help of Zahiruddin Muhammad babar. They Demolished the Gabar-Kot (fortress) in bajour in 1519 and further advanced to the swat and compelled the last Gabari King Sultan Awais Gabari to flee to Upper Dir where he established his rule in,Chitral wakhan,Badakhshan and other upper Oxus. The originator of the present family of Swat was the Muslim saint Abdul Ghafoor, the Akhund of Swat, a Safi Momand of Hazara district, from where he went to Buner territory. He was a pious man and the people respected him so greatly that they called him Akhund Sahib.[2]

During the mid-19th century, Muslim tribes were fighting against each other for the possession of Swat Valley. On the intervention of the honourable Akhund Sahib, the killing was stopped, and such was his influence that the chiefs of all tribes unanimously made him the ruler of the valley. Akhund Sahib administrated the valley according to Muslim laws. Peace and tranquility prevailed, and agriculture and trade flourished in the territory. Akhund Sahib had two sons by his wife, who belonged to Nikbi Khel.

After the death of Akhund Sahib, the tribal chiefs again started fighting and killing, which continued for years. Eventually the tribal chiefs agreed to give the control of the valley into the hands of the honourable Gul Shahzada Abdul Wadood, the son of Mian Gul Abdul Khaliq, son of Akhund Sahib. The wife of Mian Abdul Wadood was the daughter of Honorable Mirza Afzal-ul-Mulk, the ruler of Chitral. The British by trick put Chitral under the suzerainty of Kashmir. The Chitral ruler gave two horses every year to the Rajia of Kashmir, and the Raja provided Chitral with grain and sugar, etc. Swat thus went under protection of the British.

During the rule of Mian Gul Muhammad, Abdul Haq Jehanzeb, the son of Mian Abdul Wadood, the state acceded to Pakistan in 1947. The present prince, Muhammad Aurzngzeb Khan, son of Jahanzeb, married the daughter of Field Marshal Mohammad Ayub Khan in 1955. Thus by intermarriages with the other castes, the family became a branch of the imperial Gujjars i-e the Royal family of swat wali is belong to the Gurjar Rajput family which laid down the foundation of swat kingdom. Jahznzeb started a Degree College at Saidu Sahrif, the capital of the State, and four High Schools at Mingora, Chakesar, Matta and Dagar. Fourteen middle schools, twenty-eight lower middle schools, and fifty-six primary schools were established. A girls high school and high class religious schools were established at Saidu Sharif. At all the schools, the poor students were granted scholarships. The state was an exemplary state during British rule. The Gujjars were very poor people in the Swat Valley, but nowadays they have diverted their attention towards education and are holding good posts in government services. They also have a firm stand in politics of Pakistan. The current Prince Aurangzeb Khan was also Governor of Baluchistan.

Buddhist heritage of Swat

An 1869 photo of a Buddha statue seated on a lotus throne in the Swat Valley.

Although it is generally accepted that Tantric Buddhism first developed in Swat under King Indrabhuti, there is an old and well-known scholarly dispute as to whether Uddiyana was in the Swat valley, Orissa or some other place. Padmasambhava (flourished eighth century AD), also called Guru Rimpoche, Tibetan Slob-dpon (teacher), or Padma ‘byung-gnas (lotus born) legendary Indian Buddhist mystic who introduced Tantric Buddhism to Tibet and is credited with establishing the first buddhist monastery there.According to tradition, Padmasambhava was native to Udyana (now Swat in Pakistan).[3] Padmasambhava was the son of Indrabhuti, king of Swat in the early eighth century AD. One of the original Siddhas, Indrabhuti flourished in the early eighth century AD and was the king of Uddiyana in the Kabul valley. His son Padmasambhava is revered as the second Buddha in Tibet. Indrabhuti's sister, Lakshminkaradevi, was also an accomplished siddha of the 9th century AD.[4] Ancient Gandhara, the valley of Pekhawar, with the adjacent hilly regions of Swat and Buner, Dir and Bajaur was one of the earliest centers of Buddhist religion and culture following the reign of the Mauryan emperor Ashoka, in the third century BC. The name Gandhara first occurs in the Rigveda which is usually identified with the region[5]

Buddha heritage in the Swat Valley

The Swat museum has acquired footprints of the Buddha, which were originally placed for devotion in the sacred Swat valley. When the Buddha ascended, relics (personal items, body parts, ashes etc.) were distributed to seven kings, who built stupas over them for veneration.

File:Queen Elzabeth in Swat Valley-1.jpg
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh visit to Swat Valley 1961-1962

The Harmarajika stupa (Taxila) and Butkarha (Swat) stupa at Jamal Garha were among the earliest Gandhara stupas. These were erected on the orders of King Ashoka and contained the genuine relics of the historic Buddha.[citation needed]

File:Queen Elzabeth in Swat Valley.jpg
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh visit to Swat Valley 1961-1962



The Gandhara school is credited with the first representations of the Buddha in human form, rather symbolically as the wheel of the law, the tree, etc.[citation needed]

As Buddhist art developed and spread outside Gandhara, Gandharan styles were imitated. In China the Gandhara style was imitated in bronze images, with gradual changes in the features of these images over the passage of time. Swat, the land of romance and beauty, is celebrated throughout the Buddhist world as the holy land of Buddhist learning and piety. Swat was a popular destination for Buddhist pilgrims. Buddhist tradition holds that Buddha himself came to Swat during his incarnation as Gautama Buddha and preached to the people here.

It is said[by whom?] that the Swat valley was filled with fourteen hundred imposing and beautiful stupas and monasteries, which housed as many as 6,000 gold images of the Buddhist pantheon for worship and education. Archaeologists now know of more than 400 Buddhist sites covering an area of 160 km2 in Swat valley alone. Among the important excavations of Buddhist sites in Swat an important one is Butkarha-I, containing original relics of the Buddha. A stone statue of Buddha, is still there in the village Ghalegay.[citation needed] There is also a big stupa in Mohallah Singardar Ghalegay.[citation needed]

Hindu Shahi Rulers and Sanskrit

Swat was ruled by the Hindu Shahi dynasty who have built an extensive array of temples and other architectural buildings now in ruins. Sanskrit may have been the lingua franca of the Swatis.[6]

Hindu Shahi rulers built fortresses to guard and tax the commerce through this area. Their ruins can be seen in the hills of Swat: at Malakand pass at Swat’s southern entrance.[7]

Advent of Islam by Mahmud of Ghazni

At the end of the Mauryan period (324-185 BC) Buddhism spread in the whole Swat valley, which became a very famous center of Buddhist religion.[8]

After a Buddhist phase the Hindu religion reasserted itself, so that at the time of the Muslim conquest (1000 AD) the population was solidly Hindu.[8]

Capital of Swat Valley " Saidu Sharif "
Saidu Sharif Hospital Eastern Block
Main Building of Saidu sharif Hospital
Aqba Masjid

In 1023 Mahmood of Ghazni attacked Swat and crushed the last Buddhist King, Raja Gira in battle. The invasion of Mahmood of Ghazni is of special importance because of the introduction of Islam as well as changing the Chronology.[9]

Arrival Of Yousafzais

The first Muslim arrivals in Swat were Pakhtun Dilazak tribes from south-east Afghanistan. These were later ousted by Swati Pakhtuns, who were succeeded in the sixteenth century by Yusufzai Pakhtuns. Both groups of Pakhtuns came from the Kandahar and Kabul valley.[8]

Geography

The valley of Swat is situated in the north of N.W.F.P, 35° North Latitude and 72° and 30° East Longitude, and is enclosed by the sky-high mountains.

Chitral and Gilgit are situated in the north, Dir in the west, and Mardan in the south, while Indus separates it from Hazara in the east. Physical Features: Swat can be divided into two physical regions:

  1. Mountainous Ranges.
  2. Plains.

Mountainous Ranges

View from Baine Baba Ziarat, looking southwest

As mentioned above, Swat is lying in the lap of Mountainous Ranges, which are the offshoots of Hindukush, so the larger part of Swat is covered with high mountains and hills, the crests of which is hidden by everlasting snow. Though these gigantic Ranges run irregularly: some to the west while the others to the east, but the general direction is North-South. These ranges enclose small but very enchanting valleys.

Eastern Ranges: In Kohistan-e-Swat the chief knot of eastern ranges is Mankial. Its northern branches separate Kohistan-e-Swat from Abasin Kohistan. These ranges form a barrier between Gilgit and Swat, and between Chitral and Swat. The southern extension of Mankial ranges reaches proper Swat. There they join Shangla ranges. Shangla ranges separate proper Swat from Shangla Par area (Shangla Par district). In Shangla district, there are Karora Ranges, which separate Puran from Kanra and Ghurband. The continuation of Shangla ranges joins Dwasaray. On the one hand Dwasaray separates lower Swat from Puran, on the other, it set aside the Buner from Puran. Now the general Direction of the ranges turns westward. Here it is called Elum. Elum Ranges is a big wall between the proper Swat and Buner. The Elum ranges at last join mountains of Malakand.


The Western Ranges: Western ranges start from the mountain and hills of Gabral, Kohistan-e-Swat. It joins the hills of Kundal (Utror). There these ranges meet Daral Ranges. These ranges form a border with Dir district. They run west ward and are named according to the locality. For example Lalko ranges Manrai and Chaprai etc. at last they join the hills of Adenzee and Shamozee. Manrai ranges send off some off shoots southward. They the hills separate Arnoyay valley from the widest valley of Nekpikheil valley.







Plains

Actually the valley of Swat starts from the foothill of Malakand but we are concerned with portion from Landakay to Gabral (Gulabad), the area within the administrative boundaries of Swat. The length of the valley from Landakay to Gabral is 91 miles. Two narrow strips of plains run along the banks of Swat River from Landakay to Madyan. Beyond Madyan in Kohistan-e-Swat, the plan is too little to be mentioned. So for as the width concerns, it is not similar, it varies from place to place. We can say that the average width is 5 miles. The widest portion of the valley is between Barikot and khwaza khela. The widest view point and the charming sight where a major portion of the valley is seen is at Gulibagh on main road, which leads to Madyan. There are some subsidiary valleys, which help to increase the width of the main valley. These subsidiary valleys are called "Daras". A Dara a narrow passage between mountains, and sometimes, the upper course of a river is also called Dara. If we imagine the main valley as a stem of a tree the subsidiary valleys form its branches. Swat River and its tributaries drain Swat. There fore, the whole valley is the outcome of running water. This flowing water cuts the upper courses deeply, and flows the load of washed away materials. As the gradient is greater in the upper course so the erosion is on large scale, particularly in the summer rains, when all the rivers are in flood. The big boulders and stones are rolled, which causes more destruction in the upper courses. When the loaded water reaches to the areas of low gradient, the heavier materials are deposited. The deposition takes place according to the slope, generally, we observe, that the upper course is made up of big boulders, the middle course is of relatively small stones, pebbles, and debris, while the lower course is made of fine clay. Anyhow, the whole plain of Swat valley is strewn by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil.

Demographics

The population at the 1981 Census was 715,938, which had risen to 1,257,602 at the next Census in 1998. The main language of the area is Pakhto. The people of Swat are mainly [[Pashtun people|Pakhtuns],(Afghans) Yusufzais, Akhund Khel Miangan (Syed), Chitralis, Kohistan is, Gurjar (Gujar or Gurjar is the major tribe of the district; its people are divided in different clans like Khatana, Bajarh, Chichi, Ahir, Chuhan, Pamra, Gangal etc. are the main subtribe of the Gurjar family of Swat), Akhund khel Yousafzai, Nooristani, and Awans. Most probably they are originated from the same tribe that roamed around the great trans-Himalayan mountain ranges thousands of years before, and now remained in some isolated pockets of the Himalayan mountain ranges.[citation needed]

The Dardic people of the Kalam region in northern Swat are known as Kohistan is and speak the Torwali and Kalami languages. There are also some Khowar speakers in the Kalam region. This is because before Kalam came under the rule of Swat, it was a regional tributary to Chitral. The Kalamis paid a tribute of mountain ponies to the Mehtar of Chitral every year.

Tourist attractions

Marghazar

Sufid Mahal Marghazar Swat valley

Marghazar 16 km away from Saidu Sharif is famous for its “Sufed Mahal” the white marble palace of the former Wali (Ruler) of Swat.

Malam Jabba

PTDC Motel at Malam Jabba Ski Resort

Malam Jabba (also Maalam Jabba, Urdu: مالم جبہ) is a Hill Station in the Karakoram mountain range nearly 40 km from Saidu Sharif in Swat Valley, Peshawar, Pakistan. It is 314 km from Islamabad and 51 km from Saidu Sharif Airport.Malam Jabba is home to the largest ski resort in Pakistan. The Malam Jabba Ski Resort, owned by the Pakistani Tourism Development Corporation, had a ski slope of about 800m with the highest point of the slope 2804 m (9200 ft) above sea level. Malam Jabba Ski Resort was the joint effort of the Pakistan government with its Austrian counterpart. The resort was equipped with modern facilities including roller/ice-skating rinks, chair lifts, skiing platforms, telephones and snow clearing equipment.

Swat Museum

Swat Museum is on the east side of the street, halfway between Mingora and Saidu. Japanese aid has given a facelift to its seven galleries which now contain an excellent collection of Gandhara sculptures taken from some of the Buddhist sites in Swat, rearranged and labelled to illustrate the Buddha's life story. Terracotta figurines and utensils, beads, precious stones, coins, weapons and various metal objects illustrate daily life in Gandhara. The ethnographic section displays the finest examples of local embroidery, carved wood and tribal jewellery. For the last three years the museum is occupied by Pakistan army and it is not known when they would be leaving it.

Miandam

Miandam is a small summer resort ten kilometres (six miles) up a steep side valley and 56 kilometers (35 mi) from Saidu Sharif, making it an hour's drive. The metaled road passes small villages stacked up the hillside, the roofs of one row of houses forming the street for the row of houses above. Tiny terraced fields march up the hillside right to the top. Miandam is a good place for walkers. Paths follow the stream, past houses with behives set into the walls and good-luck charms whitewashed around the doors. In the graveyards are carved wooden grave posts with floral designs, like those used by Buddhists 1,000 years ago.

Madyan

By the time you reach this small town at 1320 m and about 60 km from Mingora, the mountains have closed in and the valley is almost snug. Here one senses why Swat is so popular among the tourists. There are a lot of embroidered shawls in the Bazars of Madyan.At 1,321 metres (4,335 feet) above sea level,but it is a larger town and has many hotels in all price ranges and some good tourist shopping. Antique and modern shawls, traditional embroidery, tribal jewellery, carved wood and antique or reproduced coins are sold along the main street. This is the last Swati village, offering interesting two-and three-day walks up to the mountain villages... ask in the bazaar in Muambar Khan's shop for a guide. North of Madyan is Swat Kohistan where walking is not recommended without an armed guard. The central mosque at Madyan has carved wooden pillars with elegant scroll capitals, and its mud-plastered west wall is covered with relief designs in floral motifs. Both bespeak the Swati's love of decoration.[10]

Behrain

Behrain, Swat valley

A quarter of an hour past Madyan, the road squeezes through Behrain. Tourists stop to shop or have a look around for beautiful carved wood chairs and tables and other handicrafts. Behrainis are a mix of Pashtuns and Kohistanis. Behrain is ten kilometres north of Madyan and only slightly higher, at about 1,400 metres (4,500 feet). It is another popular riverside tourist resort, with bazaars worth exploring for their handicrafts. Some of the houses have carved wooden doors, pillars and balconies. These show a remarkable variety of decorative motifs, including floral scrolls and bands of ornamental diaper patterns almost identical to those seen on Buddhist shrines and quite different from the usual Muslim designs.

Kalam

Kalam, Swat valley

2070 m high and 100 km from Mingora, it was the centre of an independent state in the 19th century. It was later taken by Chitral then given to Swat after partition.Kalam, 29 kilometres (18 mi) from Bahrain and about 2,000 metres (6,800 feet) above sea level, the valley opens out, providing rooms for a small but fertile plateau above the river. In Kalam the Ushu and Utrot rivers join to form the Swat river. Here, the metalled road ends and shingle road leads to the Ushu and Utrot valleys. From Matiltan one gets a breath-taking view of the snow-capped Mount Falaksir 5918 metres (19,415 ft.), and another unnamed peak 6096 metres (20,000 ft.) high.

Usho, Swat valley

Usho

Usho 3 km from Kalam Valley and 117 km from Saidu Sharif

Utror

Utror, Swat Valley

Utror 16 km from Kalam Valley and 120 km from Saidu Sharif. Utror valley is situated between 35° 20′ to 35° 48′ N latitudes and 72° 12′ and 72° 32′ E longitudes. The population of Utror is 6888 and the area of the valley is about 47400 hectares. Utror valley is surrounded by Gabral and Bhan valleys on the east, upper Dir district on the west, Kalam valley on the south and Gabral valley on the north. It is 15 km from Kalam, the centre of Swat Kohistan. The altitude of the valley at Utror proper is 2300 meters and reaches to 2900 meters at Kandol Lake.

Ghabral

Ghabral, Swat Valley

Gabral valley lies between 35° 20′ to 35° 48′ N latitudes and 72° 12′ and 72° 32′ E longitudes over an area of about 38733 hectares. The population of Gabral is 3238. The valley is surrounded by Chitral District in the north, Utror valley in the south and south west, upper Dir district in the west and Bhan and Mahodand valleys in the east. It is 5 km distant from Utror proper and 20 km from Kalam. The altitude of the valley ranges from 2580 metres at Baila to 5160 metres at Karkaray Lake top.In Utror and Gabral, 44 medicinal plants are collected during the months of May, June, July and August. Only 14 of them are traded to National and International markets while the rest are used locally. A survey by Pakistan Forest Institute concludes that 75 crude herbal drugs are extensively exported and more than 200 are locally traded in Pakistan. Indigenous people, who have no training in sustainable harvesting, post-harvesting care and storing of medicinal plants, collect 85 percent of these crude herbs from the wild.

Kundol Lake, Swat valley

Mahudan

Mahodand valley, which lies in the North of Kalam, is famous not only among nature lovers, and escapists but also the exotic trout fish hunters. The valley can be accessed through an un-metalled road from Kalam in a four by four (4x4) vehicle. The road is bumpy and tricky but the surrounding landscapes engrosses you so severely that you wish for more and expect to discover new panoramas. The small hamlets that are scattered in the mountains and the bellowing smoke that spirals into the sky from the houses are some, which lives in the memory forever. Swat River, which is born here, is shackled by the tall mountains, which has turned its water into a roaring monster trying to release itself from its fetters, but there are some places where the river is calm and silent without showing any sign of rebellion.

On the way to shahi bagh Lake Swat valley
Kundol Lake Swat valley
Snow cover Mountain in Swat valley
A cloudy mountain in Utror Swat valley
Spin Khwar Lake Swat valley

Pari (Khapiro) lake

Pari Lake is one of the lakes in Swat region which is located at a very high altitude in the foot of the tallest peak in the range with a considerable depth. The name Pari or Khapiro is given to the lake due to the widespread belief that the lake is the abode of fairies where they live and bathe in the cool, pure and clear water of the lake. It is located to North-east of Utror valley and can be accessed only by trekking. Trekking to the lake needs endurance and love for nature as the trail is exasperating as well as dangerous therefore, utmost care should be taken while trekking on the narrow bends and turns leading to the lake. The lake is accessible from both Izmis and Kundal lakes. Two ascending tracks lead to this lake from Kundal and Izmis lakes taking almost five hours to reach this roof top of Swat. The trail is very steep from both sides but the surrounding beauty and eye-cooling green pastures and exotic flowers not only boost the trekker’s stamina but compel him to explore further.

Kundol Lake

The pastoral valley of Swat has abundance of precious resorts of nature where one can find solace and respite from the never-ending struggle of life. Kundal or Kandolo Lake is one such place here upon which the Maestro of nature has spent extra time and effort to paint. Kundal Lake is situated in the north of Utror valley. One can easily access it from Kalam via Utror from where a link road ends in a green valley called Ladu in the foothills of the lake. You can either hike to Ladu from Utror or take a four-wheeler to ease and minimize your journey. It consumes almost two hours to reach the beautiful valley of Ladu. For the adventurous kind, a walk in the romantic valley will unravel several new mysteries. The people who take temporary residency over here during summer plow the open land and harvest potatoes and turnips, which are famous all over the country for its exotic taste. There is also a small hut in Ladu where you can take tea and get something for eating. From Ladu it takes almost four hours to reach the lake. Some locals can guide you and even take your luggage if properly paid. The mountains around this small valley are covered with tall cedar and pine trees and meandered by different streams and torrents. The people are friendly and provide you guidance if required.

Bashigram Lake

Bashigram Lake is situated to the east of Bashigram valley near Madyan. The road to this valley is partly metaled and can be plied by a four by four or any ordinary vehicle. It takes almost forty to fifty minutes to reach this picturesque valley inhibited by simple and hospitable folk. From here, trekking of four to five hours, depending on professionalism and enthusiasm of the trekkers lands you in the realm of a serene and enchanting lake of Bashigram.

Spin Khwar (White Stream) Lake

Spin Khwar is a beautiful lake hidden in the lap of mountains towards the north of Kundal Lake and east of Utror valley. The name Spin Khwar has a clear significance as a small white stream in the east flows down to the lake from the surrounding mountains and is a major source of water for the lake. The lake is accessible through two tracks, one from Kundal and the other from Ladu valley. The track from Ladu is comparatively easy to walk and less tiring while the track from Kundal is not only difficult but alarmingly dangerous although it is short and links Kundal and Spin Khwar. Its steepness and dangerous bends needs an experienced trekker and unending physical strength. The grazers in the area have built small huts and a mosque where one can stay but a personal tent is more recommendable as these huts are in a poor condition due to lack of maintenance.

Daral Lake

Daral lake is situated to the northeast of Sidgai Lake and can be accessed through Saidgai after two three hours rigorous trekking. The trail to Daral is full of fun and amusement because it runs over sky touching heights of the mountains provides spectacular sights and panoramas for the beauty hungry eyes of nature lovers. A close look towards the south will reveal the long and winding sellouts of river Swat in the horizon.After walking and trekking for about two and a half hours on bare and naked mountains, the trail start descending towards the East where Daral Lake is located.

Administration

The region has gone through considerable changes over the last few years since the dissolution of the princely state in 1969. Members of the former Royal family have since on occasion been elected to represent the area in the Provincial Assembly and National Assembly.

Provincial & national politics

The region elects two male members of the National Assembly of Pakistan (MNAs), one female MNA, seven male members of the Provincial Assembly of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (MPAs)[11] and two female MPAs. In the 2002 National and Provincial elections, the Muttahida Majlis-e-Amal, an alliance of religious political parties, won all the seats amidst a wave of anti-Americanism that spread after the United States' invasion of Afghanistan.

Wild Life: In early days when the shrubs and bushes covered slopes and foothill areas,hares, porcupine, fox, jackal, wolf, pigs, and hyenas were in large number. Now the need for fuels decreased the scrubs and trees, so these animals have decreased considerably. In the forests,monkeys are often found. Among the birds: hawks, eagles, falcons are found in the high mountains, while pheasants, partridges, hoopoes, larks, sparrows, quails, doves, swallows, starlings, nightingales, crows, kites, vultures, owls, bates are the common birds.

Bees: The bees were kept in Swat commonly, and the pure honey of was famous all over the country. But now the moveable beehives have affected the Swat locally reared bees greatly. Now, the local good honey is found in remote areas only, while the honey of moveable hives is available everywhere in low prices.

Famous Trout Fish of Swat valley
Emerald of Swat Valley Swat valley

Fisheries: There is a large fishery in Madyan. In this fishery the trout fish are being reared. In Kohistan-e-Swat there are some private fisheries too. In Buner the fish were being reared in Barandu, Dagar. Moreover the Swat River serves as a permanent fishery throughout the year while the tributaries of it are used for fishing only in spring season.

Mineral Resources: Mines' production plays an important role in the economy of a country, particularly in the regions where they exist, because, the local people get the opportunities to labor in, and earn their livelihood. But the Swati mines have no importance for the local people in this respect. It is necessary, however, to mention what they are, and where do they exist. Swat is rich in mineral wealth, but the discovered commodities are a few. Among them, the china clay stands first; others are marble stone, and emerald.

China Clay: The china clay exists at “Kathyar” in Nekpikheil (on the road that leads to Shahderai at a distance of 15 miles from Mingora). This is the largest mine, having the finest quality, of China clay in Pakistan. The clay is mined here, and is transported to Shaidu in Nawshehra (which is at a distance of around 100 miles from Swat). It is not so advantageous for the local people, because they have no opportunity to work in the complex.

Soap Clay: The mine of soap clay has been discovered recently between Alpurai and Kanra on the side of Gilgit Road (Shahrah-e-Resham). It is spread in a vast area.

Marbles: The marbles are dug near Charbagh, Murghuzar, and Barikot in the proper valley of Swat, and in Buner, it is mined in Thor Warsak, Bampokha, and Sawawai. Moreover, there is a great expectation of iron ores, which will be discovered in near future.

Emerald: The finest quality of emerald is produced in Swat. Its Color and transparency is unique. It is the best in world. It is exported to the international markets: There is an export potential of 500 million dollars in this sector, provided it is excavated and cut as per international standards. Before the absorption of Swat in Pakistan, the emeralds of Swat were better in quality, and greater in quantity. But since then it is said that the quantity of production is little, and the quality devalued.

Industries:

Handicrafts: The handicrafts of Swat are very famous. When a tourist visits Swat, he accumulates bundles of these articles as gifts for his friends. All of the crafts prepared here are interesting, especially, the following are very charming.

Stone art in Swat Valley
Stone art in Swat Valley

Woolen Blankets: These blankets are known as "Sharai". They are prepared of wool obtained from the local sheep. The weight of a medium size blanket is four kilos. This is the best source of defense from the severity of winter. It is woven in Dewlai, Kala Kalay, Salampur, Puran, and Ghurband. These villages prepare the items on commercial scale.

Shawl: Shawl is a younger brother of Sharai, as it is also a woolen sheet, but light in weight. Sometimes, cotton is also mixed in its texture. It is beautifully fringed, and is commonly used by ladies. The tourists like it too much. Shawls are prepared in Salampur and Dewlai "Jolabad" on commercial bases.

Rugs: The next important thing, made of local fleece with laborious work, is rug. This is prepared in the villages by pressing wool with the help of water spray. After preparation, it is beautified with the usage of various colors. Rugs are the traditional carpets of shepherds, but now are used everywhere.

Embroidery: The embroidery of Swat is very famous, and is liked everywhere in Pakistan, as well as by the out-comers. This art is an indoor hobby of the ladies in Swat. Particularly in Nekpikheil, this is so common that very younger girls might also be seen having needlework in their hands. There are three types of embroidery:

Panrae or Panhey: Panrey or Panrhey is the old fashion of shoes, still used by the old persons in Swat. They are made in Swat with the simply tanned leather. The cobblers have great skill in the formation of ladies shoes with golden lace work. Similarly, the sandals with golden lace work are also made. The cobblers of Shahderai had great skill in this field. It is now archaic.

Shkor: A Shkor is a pot in which chapatis (plate bread used in India and Pakistan) are kept. The ordinary Shkors are prepared everywhere in Swat, but a special design is made in Puran and Chagharzee (These Shkors are high-based pots made of wheat stalks with laborious art, not easily available in bazaar).

Furniture: Furniture of various styles is made in the district. The cots, tables, chairs, dressing tables, cradles of more advanced types, etc. are furnished in Mingora, and in nearly all large villages.

Saidu Sharif Capital of Swat Valley in Panorama View 2012.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Pakistan troops seize radical cleric's base": officials, Agence France Presse article, November 28, 2007, accessed same day
  2. ^ S.G. Page 398 and 399, T and C of N.W.F.P by Ibbestson page 11 etc
  3. ^ Students' Britannica India By Dale Hoiberg, Indu Ramchandani Page 138
  4. ^ Buddhist Art & Antiquities of Himachal Pradesh: Up to 8th Century A.D., by Omacanda Hāṇḍā Edition: illustrated Published by Indus Publishing, 1994 Page 89
  5. ^ Architecture and Art Treasures in Pakistan By F. A. Khan, published by Elite Publishers, 1969
  6. ^ Sorrow and Joy Among Muslim Women The Pukthuns of Northern Pakistan By Amineh Ahmed Published by Cambridge University Press, 2006 Page 21.
  7. ^ Swat: An Afghan Society in Pakistan: Urbanisation and Change in Tribal Environment By Inam-ur-Rahim, Alain M. Viaro Published by City Press, 2002 Page 59
  8. ^ a b c Fredrik Barth, Features of Person and Society in Swat: Collected Essays on Pathans, illustrated edition, Routledge, 1981, page 20
  9. ^ Proceedings of the Second International Hindukush Cultural Conference By Elena Bashir, Israr-ud-Din Contributor Elena Bashir, Israr-ud-Din Published by Oxford University Press, 1990, Page 50
  10. ^ http://www.madyanguesthouse.com
  11. ^ Constituencies and MPAs - Website of the Provincial Assembly of the N-W.F.P

35°23′N 72°11′E / 35.383°N 72.183°E / 35.383; 72.183