Iuliia Kaplina
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| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Russian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 11 May 1993 Tyumen, Russia | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Competition speed climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | setting multiple world records | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (Russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian competition climber who has won multiple competition speed climbing events and set multiple world records.[1][2][3][4][5][6][7] She was the world record holder in women's speed climbing until 6 August 2021, setting the record at the 2020 European Championships in Moscow (6.964).[8]
Her first participation in World Cup was in 2012 in Chamonix where she ranked 18th. Her performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 qualified her for a spot in the 2020 Summer Olympics.[9] There, she did not qualify for the final after failing to push the button at the top of the wall in her second try, leaving her with her initial time of 7.65 at the end, which was not enough to stay in the top 10 until the end of the qualification, as she did not show good enough results in the lead and bouldering events. In an interview with Sport-Express she stated that the Russians did not know about the opportunity to do test climbs before the actual qualification climbs; the organizers forbade test climbs for speed climbers during the qualification event.[clarification needed] She explained that test climbs are important to understand the friction of the holds and the climate of the surroundings.[10]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline[11] | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Speed | 18 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
Climbing World Championships
Source:[12]
Youth
| Discipline | 2012 Junior |
|---|---|
| Speed | 3 |
Adult
| Discipline | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2021 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Speed | 2 | 8 | 3 | 13 | 2 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Speed
| Season[12] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 | ||||
| 2013 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
| 2014 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 2015 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 4 |
| 2016 | 2 | 4 | 6 | |
| 2017 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
| 2018 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 2019 | – | – | 2 | 2 |
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 12 | 12 | 8 | 32 |
References
- ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Record - Iuliia Kaplina at Wujiang 2013". YouTube.
- ^ "New Women's World Speed Record and Gold medal to Iuliia Kaplina".
- ^ "Speed Climbing World Cup in China". 21 June 2015.
- ^ "Iuliia Kaplina Sets a New Women's World Speed Record". YouTube.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017".
- ^ "Records tumble on final day of IFSC World Cup in Nanjing". 30 April 2017.
- ^ "Kaplina Sets New World Record, Iran Wins First Gold". Archived from the original on 2018-12-06. Retrieved 2018-12-08.
- ^ Iuliia Kaplina Sets New Speed Climbing Record
- ^ "Six Women Qualify for Olympics in Toulouse". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 July 2021.
- ^ «Мои слезы стали рекламой скалолазания». Скалолазка Каплина — о не нажатой в Токио кнопке
- ^ IFSC (ed.). "World Cup Rankings". Archived from the original on 29 March 2019.
- ^ a b IFSC (ed.). "Kaplina's profile and rankings".
