Langbahn Team – Weltmeisterschaft

Pizza in Brazil

Pizza is a very popular food in Brazil, and the country's choice of toppings are internationally renowned for being unconventional.[1] The city of São Paulo, where pizza originated in Brazil, comes second only to New York City in daily pizza consumption.[1]

History

Wheat field in Rio Grande do Sul c. 1898

Wheat only started being grown in reasonable quantities in Brazil in the latter part of the 18th century. Even then, its production was aimed at supplying the viceroyalty and the upper class, so common folk did not have easy access to it.[2] Instead, baking was done mostly using mandioca or maize flour.[2]

In 1808, along with the Portuguese court came the first bakers by trade.[3] Brazil's wheat production, suffering from a rust that cut harvest yield by half, was insufficient for the population that had arrived.[3][4] In order to supply demand, wheat began to be imported from the United States and Russia soon afterwards.[2][3][4]

This coincided with developments in the abolition of slavery in Brazil, which caused landowners to increasingly look to immigrants as a source of cheap labor to replace slaves.[5] The largest share of those immigrants were Italian in origin.[a][5] With many Italian Brazilians in the country and easy access to wheat, conditions were ideal for the emergence of pizza.

Pizza was sold as a street food in Brazil since at least the late 19th century.[6][7] Sellers would bake pizzas at home, then carry them on the streets in portable metal barrels fitted with burning coal at the bottom to keep them warm.[7]

The first known Brazilian pizzeria was Carmino Corvino's Santa Genoveva, a cantina which opened in 1910 in the Brás district in the city of São Paulo.[6][8] It offered pizzas in four flavors: mozzarella, napolitana, alice and mezzo a mezzo (half alici, half mozzarella).[6][8]

In Brazilian society

Brazilian pizzeria chain Mister Pizza, in Rio de Janeiro

The United Pizzerias Association of Brazil (Associação Pizzarias Unidas do Brasil, APUBRA) annually publishes a study on pizzerias in the country. Their count, with data up to December 2020, puts the number of pizzerias in the country at 83,291.[9] Though, due to the nature of the data made available by the government, the organization estimates their study covers only about 75% of the actual pizzerias in Brazil, so there should be around 110 thousand in reality.[9] With about 41% of the country's population, the Southeast Region has the largest share of the country's pizzerias, with over 50%:

Population share vs. pizzeria distribution by Region
Region Population
share (2022)[10]
Pizzeria
distribution (2020)[9]
Pizzeria
distribution (2023)[11]
Average pizza consumption
per capita (g/day) (2018)[12]
North 8.5% 5% 4% 3.7
Northeast 26.9% 19% 16% 4.3
Center-west 8.0% 8% 8% 7.4
Southeast 41.8% 54% 52% 8.0
South 14.7% 14% 20% 7.7

Between the years of 1962 and 2007, a span of 45 years, Brazil saw around 10 thousand pizzerias open in the country. In contrast, in the 12 years between 2008 and 2020, over 73 thousand new pizzerias opened.[9] In a 2018 report, the production of pizzas in Brazil was estimated at 1 million a day, with São Paulo accounting for about 572 thousand;[13] by 2023, that number had spiked to 3.8 million and 870 thousand, respectively.[14]

Pizza is consumed habitually across socioeconomic groups in Brazil. In a 2003 study, groups from upper-middle, middle and lower-middle class all reported a pizza consumption of, on average, once every two weeks; this is contrast to, for example, chocolate, which was, on average, 10 times more frequent in the upper-middle class' consumption compared to the lower-middle class'.[15] In a study by the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics (IBGE) to measure food consumption in Brazil in 2017–2018, researchers split the population between four income strata.[12] The average pizza consumption per capita was 1.8, 4.9, 9.0 and 12.5 grams per day, from lowest to highest income, respectively.[12]: 58 

Additionally, pizza is seemingly mostly an urban commodity. In the IBGE study for 2017–2018, the average pizza consumption per capita in rural areas was 1.4 grams per day, in contrast to the 7.4 grams per day in urban areas.[12]: 38 

Cultural aspects

A linguiça calabresa, onions and olives pizza, filled to the brim with toppings, from Guarujá, São Paulo

In Brazil, pizza is often consumed using cutlery, as opposed to with one's hands.[16][17] Travel writer Carla Vianna justifies this cultural quirk by pointing at the kinds and quantities of pizza toppings in Brazil: the only way to eat a "pizza portuguesa" (lit.'Portuguese pizza'), a combo of cheese, hard-boiled eggs, onions, peas and ham without it falling apart, is by using utensils.[16] Additionally, as Milk Street writer J. M. Hirsch puts it, in Brazil, pizza is "a fine dining, Sunday family dinner situation"; "sit down, not carry out".[17] With those factors combined, fork and knife are usually a social expectation, as well as, pragmatically, a necessity.[16][17]

Pizzas are often ordered for a group of people to share, as opposed to each person eating separately.[17] As such, a common option is ordering meio a meio ("half and half"): pizzas in which half the toppings are of one kind, and half are another.[18] The halves are usually either both savory or both sweet, though not necessarily. Furthermore, some restaurants offer to cut the pizza into small squares or rhombuses instead of the traditional triangular slices. In Brazil, this is known as the [corte] à francesa ("French-style [cut]"),[19][20] which internationally is referred to as the "Chicago cut", "party cut" or "tavern cut".[20][21]

Throughout Brazil, condiments such as ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise and olive oil are customarily added to pizza.[22][23][24]

Rodízios

Plate at a pasta rodízio restaurant, a slice of pizza with a side of spaghetti, resembling Canadian pizza-ghetti

A common way to dine pizza in Brazil is at a rodízio restaurant. Such establishments are all-you-can-eat style, in which slices of pizza are served continuously by waiters and patrons decide which slices they wish to eat, and when to stop.[22]

In these settings, uncommon flavors are more customary.[25] One can find pizzas with toppings such as french fries, chicken or beef stroganoff, hamburger patties with cheddar cheese and even Fettuccine Alfredo.[25][26]

Varieties

An unusual order of half savory (tomatoes, olives), half sweet (prestígio: chocolate with coconut) pizza

Brazilian pizzas are considered "less conservative" than their Italian counterparts, which translates to a greater variety of toppings.[25] As columnist Dias Lopes puts it, "in Brazil, there is no standard" for toppings when restaurants come up with them.[7] Travel blogger Diego Ortiz states "virtually anything can go on pizza" in Brazil.[22]

Due to the liberal amount of toppings, pizza in Brazil is also cooked at lower temperatures and at a slower pace than their Italian counterparts; Milk Street writer J. M. Hirsch describes "a relatively tepid 330 °C (626 °F) for roughly 2½ minutes", in contrast to Naples' 60–90 seconds at 430 °C (806 °F) to 480 °C (896 °F).[17]

Savory pizzas

Plain mozzarella pizza – tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and dried oregano leaves – is one of the most ordered pizza varieties in Brazil, behind only pizza calabresa, which are topped with the linguiça calabresa (or "calabresa sausage").[7] The plain mozzarella pizza, while sold by itself, is also usually considered the base for every savory pizza, with few exceptions.[27]

The pizza portuguesa (lit.'Portuguese pizza'), invented at some point in the 1950s or 60s, is the third most popular topping of choice in Brazil.[7] It's usually ham, sliced onions, hard-boiled eggs and olives on top of the usual tomato sauce and mozzarella base.[7] However, depending on the restaurant, it may also include peas, calabresa sausage, bell peppers, hearts of palm, portobello mushrooms (known as "champignon" in Brazil) and even cooked corn, while still being referred to as a Portuguese pizza.[22][7]

Another very popular topping in Brazil is frango com requeijão ("chicken with requeijão"), known also with the brand name, frango com catupiry ("chicken with Catupiry"),[7] a simple shredded chicken pizza with requeijão streaks. It is rumored to have been created in the 1970s when a representative of the Catupiry brand suggested its use in a pizza.[7]

Requeijão has been widely used with toppings other than chicken, such as ham or pepperoni – the latter making what is sometimes called a catuperoni (Catupiry + pepperoni) pizza.[28]

Calabresa pizzas in São Paulo

São Paulo differs from the rest of the country when it comes to pizza calabresa (with "calabresa sausage"): paulistas, those who live in the city, believe a true pizza calabresa should not contain cheese.[27] The recipe in the city is usually dough, tomato sauce, calabresa and sliced onions.[27] Outside São Paulo, this may be considered strange and surprising, as savory pizzas, regardless of toppings, are expected to start with a base of dough, tomato sauce and mozzarella.[27][29]

Sweet pizzas

While controversial to some, sweet pizzas are very common in Brazil.[22] One common topping choice is Romeu e Julieta, a combination of cheese and goiabada (sometimes translated as "guava paste").[22][25]

Bananas are also a very common sweet pizza topping, sometimes atop mozzarella (though with no tomato sauce), and usually paired with chocolate, dulce de leche, condensed milk or cinnamon and sugar.[22][25]

Finally, chocolate pizzas are a family on its own. Melted chocolate, be it milk or white chocolate, is spread on the dough as a sort of "sauce". This is then topped with pretty much anything – strawberries, shredded coconut, chocolate sprinkles, M&M's, crushed Kit Kats, brownies and even ice cream scoops.[22]

Stuffed crust

In Brazil, borda recheada (stuffed crust) is a common add-on option when purchasing pizzas. They are sometimes offered in different shapes, apart from the traditional folded dough, such as soft buns, bow ties, and twisted or star-shaped dough.[30]

The filling can be savory or sweet, ranging from requeijão, cheddar, Gorgonzola to dulce de leche and milk or white chocolate.[30] This is sometimes used as a built-in dessert: ordering a savory pizza with a sweet-filled stuffed crust to be eaten afterwards.[30]

Stuffed crust is thought to have been introduced to Brazilian pizzas in the late 1990s, at first exclusively filled with requeijão,[30] after a pizzeria owner devised it as a solution to the issue of many customers not eating the crusts.[31]

A pizzeria in Dourados went viral in early 2024 after posting a video of its stuffed crust-only pizza, a strip of stuffed crust coiled into a pizza shape.[32][33] The establishment has been selling this option for about a decade, and offers sweet and savory fillings, such as requeijão, Nutella and Ferrero Rocher.[33]

To "end in pizza" ("acabar" or "terminar em pizza"), sometimes "everything ends in pizza", is a common expression in Brazilian Portuguese indicating that something came to an end without any meaningful results, or that a crime (often corruption) went unpunished.[34] Its origin was purportedly tracked down to a football dispute from the 1960s which fizzled out after the squabblers went to a pizzeria; this was reported with the headline "Palmeiras' crisis ended in pizza" ("Crise do Palmeiras terminou em pizza").[6]

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Though some migrated before the unification of Italy.

References

  1. ^ a b Iseman, Courtney (21 September 2024). "The Key To Brazilian Pizza Is A Subtle Spread Of Sauce". Tasting Table. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  2. ^ a b c Monteleone, Joana (24 January 2020). Maciel, Camila (ed.). "Sobre o trigo, o pão e as padeiras no século 19". Brasil de Fato (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 17 January 2025.
  3. ^ a b c Bartaburu, Xavier (2016). Do grão ao pão : farinha de trigo : história da moagem no Brasil (in Brazilian Portuguese). Photography by Lígia Fernandes, Karina Sechi and Valdemir Cunha. São Paulo: Editora Origem. p. 92. ISBN 978-85-64444-10-2. Retrieved 18 January 2025.
  4. ^ a b Brum, Argemiro Luís; Heck, Cláudia Regina; Lemes, Cristiano da Luz (2004). "As Políticas Brasileiras de Fomento à Cultura do Trigo: uma revisão histórica". Desenvolvimento em Questão. Vol. 2, no. 3. pp. 95–117. doi:10.21527/2237-6453.2004.3.95-117 (inactive 20 January 2025). Retrieved 18 January 2025.{{cite magazine}}: CS1 maint: DOI inactive as of January 2025 (link)
  5. ^ a b Alessio, Francesco Saverio (2003). "Emigrazione Italiana in Brasile". Associazione Internet degli Emigrati Italiani (in Italian). Retrieved 20 January 2025.
  6. ^ a b c d Lopes, Dias (30 September 2010). "Há mais de 100 anos tudo já acabava em pizza" [Over 100 years ago everything already ended in pizza]. Estadão (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 12 January 2025.
  7. ^ a b c d e f g h i Lopes, Dias (27 April 2019). "Pizza à paulistana". Veja (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  8. ^ a b Junior, Geraldo Sesso (1986). Retalhos da Velha São Paulo (in Brazilian Portuguese) (2nd ed.). OESP Gráfica/Editora Maltese. pp. 111–119, 123–127. OCLC 16261769. OL 18054213M.
  9. ^ a b c d "Estudo de Mercado: Crescimento das Pizzarias no Brasil" [Market Study: Growth of Pizzerias in Brazil] (PDF). Associação Pizzarias Unidas do Brasil (in Brazilian Portuguese). No. 1. July 2022. Retrieved 12 January 2025.
  10. ^ do Brasil, Cristina Índio (28 June 2023). "População do Brasil passa de 203 milhões, mostra Censo 2022" [Brazil's Population surpasses 203 million, shows 2022 Census]. Agência Brasil (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 12 January 2025.
  11. ^ "Estudo de Mercado de Pizzarias no Brasil 2023" [Study on the Pizzeria Market in Brazil 2023] (PDF). Associação Pizzarias Unidas do Brasil (in Brazilian Portuguese). No. 3. April 2024. Retrieved 12 January 2025.
  12. ^ a b c d Pesquisa de orçamentos familiares 2017–2018: Análise do Consumo Alimentar Pessoal no Brasil (PDF) (in Brazilian Portuguese). Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics. 2020. ISBN 9786587201153. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  13. ^ Silva, Camila (10 July 2018). "Brasil produz 1 milhão de pizzas por dia; estado de SP consome mais da metade". G1 (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 13 January 2025.
  14. ^ "Brasil produz 3,8 milhões de pizzas por dia e calabresa é a mais pedida". Associação Pizzarias Unidas do Brasil (in Brazilian Portuguese). 12 July 2023. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  15. ^ Oths, Kathryn S.; Carolo, Adriana; dos Santos, Jose Ernesto (2003). "Social Status and Food Preference in Southern Brazil". Ecology of Food and Nutrition. 42 (4–5): 303–324. Bibcode:2003EcoFN..42..303O. doi:10.1080/03670240390247797. ISSN 0367-0244. PMID 22260175. Retrieved 13 January 2025.
  16. ^ a b c Vianna, Carla (5 November 2021). "Why Eating Pizza With A Knife and Fork Is Sometimes Fine". Eater (in Brazilian Portuguese). Illustrated by Nicole Medina. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  17. ^ a b c d e Hirsch, J.M. (May–June 2022). "The World's Best Pizza Isn't in Italy?". Christopher Kimball's Milk Street. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  18. ^ Esparza, Bill (19 July 2022). "Take a Deep Dive Into the Wild Toppings of Brazilian Pizza". Eater Los Angeles. Photos by Matthew Kang. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  19. ^ "Francesa ou fatia?". Facebook (in Brazilian Portuguese). 29 June 2020. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  20. ^ a b "Domino's Apresenta Pizza Finíssima para o Verão". Giro News (in Brazilian Portuguese). 14 December 2017. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  21. ^ Albring, Angel (27 March 2023). "The Brilliant Reason Chicago Thin Crust Pizza Is Cut In Squares". The Daily Meal. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  22. ^ a b c d e f g h Ortiz, Diego (8 April 2021). "Pizza in Brazil: Common Toppings, Famous Pizzerias & Fun Facts". Hey Explorer. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  23. ^ Foxhole, Maggie (24 February 2012). "Brazilian Challenge Day 55: Pizza Brazil Style". Born Again Brazilian. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  24. ^ "Azeite de oliva extravirgem na pizza: antes ou depois de assada? A ciência explica". RPC | Receitas (in Brazilian Portuguese). 17 August 2023. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  25. ^ a b c d e Bruha, Patrick (29 September 2014). "Brazilian Pizza Styles". The Brazil Business. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  26. ^ "Parmê Bangu – Cardápio" (PDF). Parmê (in Brazilian Portuguese). 5 July 2024. pp. 2–3. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  27. ^ a b c d Capanema, Rafael (26 July 2022). "Por que o Brasil odeia tanto a pizza de calabresa sem queijo?" [Why does Brazil hate the calabresa pizza with no cheese?] (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  28. ^ "Pizza Catuperoni". Forneria Original (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 20 January 2025.
  29. ^ "Chefs do Rio e SP divergem: Muito, pouco ou nada de queijo na pizza?". Pequenas Empresas & Grandes Negócios (in Brazilian Portuguese). 9 July 2021. Retrieved 14 January 2025.
  30. ^ a b c d Luporini, Fábio (29 July 2022). "O sucesso da borda recheada". Folha de Londrina [pt] (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 20 January 2025.
  31. ^ Cardoso, Tom (24 November 2016). "O rei das pizzas sente o calor". Exame (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 20 January 2025.
  32. ^ Brito, Carina (29 February 2024). "Pizza feita só de borda viraliza e faz vendas crescerem 20%". Pequenas Empresas & Grandes Negócios (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 20 January 2025. (subscription required)
  33. ^ a b "Pizza feita só de borda viraliza nas redes sociais e ultrapassa 2,3 milhões de visualizações". Terra (in Brazilian Portuguese). 1 March 2024. Retrieved 20 January 2025.
  34. ^ "Pizza | Michaelis On-line". Michaelis (in Brazilian Portuguese). Retrieved 12 January 2025.

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