Eri silk
Eri silk is a type of peace silk produced by the domesticated silkworm Samia ricini. It is primarily produced in the northeastern Indian states of Assam, Nagaland and Meghalaya, but it is also found in Bihar, Odisha, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh on a smaller scale.[1] It was imported to Thailand in 1974.[2]
Eri is derived from the Assamese word "era," which refers to castor, a plant on which the Eri silkworms feed. The silk is produced by worms that consume the leaves of the castor oil plant (Ricinus communis).[3]
Generally, silk cocoons are boiled with the worm inside to preserve the continuity of the fibers. Whereas Eri silk cocoons are open at one end, allowing the moth to leave before the cocoon is processed. This unique characteristic of Eri silk means it can be harvested without killing the silkworm, making it a more ethical alternative to other types of silk. Thus, the woolly white silk is often referred to as the fabric of peace when it is processed without killing the silkworm. This process results in a silk called Ahimsa silk. Moths leave the cocoon and then the cocoons are harvested to be spun. The eri silkworm is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than Bombyx mori. The silk is characterized by its soft texture and natural colors, which range from white to faint gold, with some variations appearing in rust-red. One of the unique features of Eri silk is its heavier and darker nature compared to other silks such as Mulberry or Tussar.[4][5]
Process
Eri caterpillars eat a number of plants, including Kesseru. In India, it is grown in the states of Meghalaya, Assam, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and some small cities in other states. It has been grown in 28 provinces of Thailand since 1974[2] where the heavy rainfall and humid atmosphere of the region suits the eri culture. The spun threads are often more "cottony" than most Bombyx silks, although some eri yarns can be very soft and shiny. After 30–32 days, the silkworm crawls in search of a comfortable place among the leaves to spin its cocoon.
In Thailand, eri silkworms are fed cassava leaves as well as castor leaves.[2]
Qualities
Eri silk is a staple fiber, unlike other silks, which are continuous filament. The texture of the fabric is coarse, fine, and dense. It is very strong, durable, and elastic. Eri silk is darker and heavier than other silks and blends well with wools and cotton. Renowned for its rustic look, eri silk has excellent thermal properties, ensuring coolness in summer and warmth in winter. Additionally, it holds eco-friendly certification, underscoring its sustainability credentials. [6]
Uses of eri silk fabric
In India, eri was mostly used for the preparation of winter shawls for men and women. The thermal properties of eri silk makes it a suitable fabric for shawls, jackets, blankets, and bed spreads. Dress materials and baby dresses are also made from eri silk fabric because of its soft texture and moisture absorbent quality. Nowadays very fine (up to 210 Nm) eri spun yarns are available, which enables weaving of very fine clothing, including traditional sari dress materials.
Eri silk is durable and strong and has a typical texture; hence, it is widely used in home furnishing like curtains, bed covers, cushion covers, wall hangings, quilts, etc. Its woolly feel adds to the comfort.
Two eri spun-silk mills have been established in Hindupur in Andhra Pradesh and Kokrajhar in Assam while another is at Chaygaon, near Guwahati, Assam, which is spinning eri spun-silk yarn with various blends with bamboo, muga silk, and cotton.
Eri silk products are promoted as eco-friendly and natural, and provide jobs and money for the tribal peoples who practice eri culture.
Eri silk production in India during 2007–2008 was 1,530 tons. This made up 73 percent of the total wild silk production of 2,075 tons.
Vegan designer Lucy Tammam uses eri silk in her couture evening and bridal wear collections.[7]
See also
References
- ^ Tamta, Meenakshi; Mahajan, Surabhi. "The novel silk fiber: Eri" (PDF). International Journal of Home Science. 7 (1): 101–104 – via ResearchGate.
- ^ a b c Wangkiat, Paritta (19 February 2017). "Ericulture reeling them in". Bangkok Post. Retrieved 19 February 2017.
- ^ "Eri/Ahimsa silk". Archived from the original on 29 August 2024. Retrieved 29 August 2024.
- ^ "Surprising Properties of Eri Silk You Must Know". Archived from the original on 14 September 2024. Retrieved 14 September 2024.
- ^ "Eri Silk vs. Tussar Silk". Archived from the original on 14 September 2024. Retrieved 14 September 2024.
- ^ "Ryndia silk of the Khasi Hills, Meghalaya | Garland Magazine". garlandmag.com. 27 May 2021. Archived from the original on 6 July 2024. Retrieved 16 September 2024.
- ^ "LFW AW13 // Off Schedule // Atelier Tammam". Rewardrobe. Archived from the original on 14 October 2014. Retrieved 23 September 2014.
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External links
- Budelman, Joanna. "Did the Silk Route Miss Meghalaya's Eri Silk". May 26, 2019.
- Jayaramiah, Jaishankar (2009 July 20). "Silk Board keen on pvt sector initiative to promote eri silk". Retrieved November 25, 2009.
- Joy, Steena. "Eri silk set to take the fashion world by storm" Archived 2012-02-27 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved November 25, 2009.
- Muezart, Yarn. "Eri Silk Online Store".